Great South West Walk

Thursday August 2

Section 3. BIGBURY-ON-SEA TO SALCOMBE. Miles: 13 Grading:Moderate to start but will become strenuous.

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at Bigbury car park at 8am.
The walk will commence at 8.30am.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus services
The principal operator for services between Kingsbridge, Marlborough and Salcombe is Tally Ho!, Unit 6 Station Yard Industrial Estate, Kingsbridge, TQ7 1ES Tel. 01548 853081
Western National runs infrequent services to Hope Cove etc.

Trains
This part of the path is difficult to get to by railway. It is possible to get a train to Ivybridge, then a bus to Bigbury-on-Sea. The telephone for rail enquiries is 0345 484950.

Maps
Landranger Series (scale 1:50 000) Number 202 - Torbay and South Dartmoor area
Outdoor Leisure Series (scale1:25 000) Number 20 - Plymouth and South Devon

General Information
BIGBURY-ON-SEA - cafe, limited accommodation.
BANTHAM - pub.
THURLESTONE - limited accommodation.
THURLESTONE SANDS - seasonal snack bar.
HOPE COVE - seasonal cafe, pubs, limited accommodation.
BOLBERRY DOWN - restaurant.
SALCOMBE - pubs, cafes, restaurants, parking, shops (including a chemist) and toilets.

There are other facilities at varying distances off route but we imagine most walkers on this stretch will not usually wish to divert to find them. However those forced to take the inland route around the Avon estuary may be glad to know that Aveton Gifford has a shop, pub and limited accommodation.

TAXIS
Arrow Cars - Mr Kemp - tel: 01548 856120
D & C Taxis - tel: 01548 852906
Adrian's Taxis - tel: 01548 854385 (mobile 0976 808756)

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES
Council Hall, Market Street, Salcombe. (tel: 01548 843927)

The Route

There are two Bigburys but only Bigbury-on-Sea will be of interest to the coast path walker. The village of Bigbury, about 2 miles (3 km) inland is small. Bigbury-on-Sea is a very popular and sometimes overcrowded venue for the day tripper, with a fine beach particularly suitable for children.

Offshore from Bigbury-on-Sea, and connected with it by a tidal causeway, is Burgh Island. In medieval times a chapel was situated here, but today a hotel and an inn are the only buildings on the island. The hotel has a fine art deco interior but access is normally only by prior booking, even for afternoon tea. It was used as a setting by Agatha Christie, and as a trysting place by Edward VIII, then Prince of Wales, and Wallis Simpson. Noel Coward also stayed there. On Burgh Island there are also the remains of a huer's hut. Huers were watchers who waited for the shoals of pilchards, and are usually associated in the public mind with Cornwall; it is sometimes forgotten that pilchards were fished off the South Devon coast as well. The huers at the hut would watch the surface of the sea. When a large shoal of pilchards approached it would actually tinge the sea pink. When this was seen a hue or shout was given or a fire lit so that the local fishing fleet could immediately set sail.

At low tide the island can be visited by walking along the causeway, but this should never be attempted when the tide is coming in. When the causeway is impassable the island may be visited by making use of the unusual 'bus service' that plies between the island and the mainland.

Within a few yards of the entrance to the sea front car park, the coast path descends towards the beach. Here there is a choice; if the tide is out one can walk along the beach and cross Cockleridge Point to reach the ferry point. This saves a climb and some road walking. However if the tide is in as you approach the beach, there is a sharp turn left which takes you nearly back to the road and the start of the coast path on the Clematon Hill National Trust property. Just before the first building, the path bears left by a fence and a few yards further on goes down left, leaving the drive. The path then unfortunately goes back again to the road and up to the entrance of Mount Folly Farm. This inland route does have two plus points, however. By walking Clematon Hill you will have walked the very first improvement in the coast path secured by our Association, and there are also superb high level views of the mouth of the River Avon.

CROSSING THE AVON

EVEN AT DEAD LOW WATER, WE STRESS THAT YOU MUST SERIOUSLY CONSIDER WHETHER YOU SHOULD WADE THIS RIVER OR NOT. IT CAN BE DANGEROUS. SOME HAVE THE OPINION THAT WHEN THE FERRY IS NOT IN SERVICE, THE ONLY CHOICE IS TO GO AROUND.

The pleasantest and easiest way to cross is by ferry which
usually runs for a short period each day, at Easter and again from the Spring Bank Holiday until the end of August; see our Annual Guide for up to date details. The river crossed is the River Avon that rises in Southern Dartmoor. Watch out for the unusual but attractive boathouse on the estuary beach. We do know that some walkers have waded the river at low tide when the sea is not rough or the river isnot in flood. It is not however anything like as easy as wading the Erme, and you are likely to get a lot wetter than you expect. We have heard from some who have attempted it and turned back because it proved deeper than they thought and of another who tried it and had to be rescued. Against that we know of others who have crossed and lived to tell the tale and indeed, one of our Committee, new to the area, tried it out himself in July 1999, getting wet to above the knees but otherwise unscathed. If you wish to try, study the tide tables first. The two guide points are just below the ferry crossing. On the true right bank - the western side - there is a well-defined hedge running north and south with pine trees. On the left bank - the eastern side - there is a cream-painted blue shuttered building. Line up with the seaward side of the building to walk from the Bigbury side, and the hedge and trees from the Bantham side. It is advisable to take a stick to check the ever-changing riverbed. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO WADE AFTER HEAVY RAIN. It is important, if you do attempt to wade that you cross between these two points. Elsewhere there are deeper channels and patches of soft sand. Further towards the sea, there is a considerable tidal ebb which can be exceedingly dangerous.

There are no convenient bus services but taxis are available; see the end of this Path Description for details.

For a detailed guide to walking around the estuary see page 18

BANTHAM

Bantham is largely unspoilt and thanks are due to the Evans Estates who own much of it and rent part from the Duchy of Cornwall. It was an old fishing settlement with pilchard cellars and a small port. Boats from Plymouth and Brixham continued to call until World War I, some bringing limestone for the local kilns. Note the early stone 'dog' stile by the last house on your left as you leave the village.

The route around Bantham Ham is part of the official coast path and is pleasantly scenic. However, if time presses, you can simply walk down through the car park and omit it. The path regains the coast and proceeds to climb to nearly 200 feet (61 m). Do stop and look back before you cross the summit - the view is most rewarding. On the descent you walk alongside the golf course and you are warned to take care.

This section is a delight for flowers and therefore for butterflies, not on account of the rarity of any of the species, but because of their profusion. Large areas of wild white clover, extensive patches of sea thrift, marguerite daisies and creeping wild thyme, the sea samphire - once much sought after for preserving - and a host of other varieties of wild flowers add to the beauty of the scene, and attract a wide variety of Lepidoptera.

THURLESTONE

Thurlestone gets its name from the holed or thirled stone (in Anglo-Saxon 'thyrel', meaning a hole), which was first recorded in 845 and is still there, just offshore; similar of course to Tol-pedn-Penwith, which you may remember passing all those miles ago! The wreck to be seen at low tide is the Belgian ship Louis Sheid which came ashore in December 1939. The big hotel was used as a training establishment for officers during World War II. Service protocol did not allow trainees to be told whether they had passed the course until they returned to their own unit. Officers, however new, were entitled to travel by taxi not lorry, so at the end of your course, if a taxi came for you you could expect good news; if the truck came, tough!

Thurlestone Beach and the neighbouring South Milton beach are linked by what is probably the longest wooden footbridge on the whole coast path, and it carries the path over a wide area of marsh, through which the stream from South Milton makes its way to the sea. The path soon passes The South Huish Nature Reserve. From South Milton beach the Thurlestone Rock Arch may be seen to advantage, and adjacent is a group of half-tide rocks with the unusual name of The Books. The path is then diverted off its old route on the cliffs for a short road section.

When the coast is regained it soon climbs to Great Ledge, and on to Beacon Point. Tradition has it that it was from here that the first land sightings of the Spanish Armada were made, and it was upon this point the first of a long chain of Armada beacons was lit. From this point also there are some excellent views forward to Bolt Tail. The footpath descends to Hope Cove.

HOPE COVE

The name Hope has the potential for all sorts of romantic origins, but probably it is much more mundane, coming from the old Icelandic word 'hop', meaning a bay or inlet. Traditionally there are two settlements here; the first one you come to is Outer Hope and the second Inner Hope.

The residents were accustomed to jealously maintain their status as Outer Hopers or Inner Hopers. The buildings in Outer Hope have suffered considerable 'improvement' that has effectively disguised their charm, but at least two of the old thatched cottages survive. There is also a row of old coastguard cottages and a house known as the 'Watch House' where the Revenue cutter was formerly kept. One other interesting feature here is an old lime kiln which sometimes functions as an ice cream and soft drinks shop in season. Doubtless many a fine thirst was generated here in its time as a lime kiln, and it seems quite fitting that when it no longer generated thirsts it should be devoted to slaking them; a philosopher would undoubtedly have found some sort of moral.

The transition from Outer Hope to Inner Hope is by concrete and tarmac, in fact there was once a road directly between the two but it was washed away and a new road had to be made inland. An alternative at low tide is to walk along the beach. A very short diversion from the coast is recommended. Leave the cove just before the old Lifeboat Station and walk inland along the road for about 200 yards (185 m), where, on the right, is the entrance to the square.

HOPE COVE, INNER HOPE TO SALCOMBE FERRY

7 miles; 12 km

Inner Hope has more character than its neighbour. In the square, the scenic old cottages with delightful little flower borders fronting the square will give much pleasure. Amazing as it may seem, there was once a cinema here, appropriately called 'The Barn Cinema', because that was what it had originally been! On the way back to the coast, note on the right another row of Coastguard cottages built about 1887 to replace those seen earlier at Outer Hope. The old lifeboat house with its launching slipway ceased to be operational in 1887, at which date the boat and the service were transferred to the South Sands station, from which it was later moved to Salcombe. The boat was a sailing and pulling lifeboat until it was moved to Salcombe, when it was replaced with a powered boat.

The next stretch has been called one of Devon's four classic walks and certainly it is excellent walking. Unless you are unfortunate and get a day of poor visibility, it is not a length to be hurried. From Hope Cove the coast path climbs steeply to achieve the 400 foot (122 m) contour in a very short distance. Near the top, watch for the signs going right, because the path makes a short but scenically well worthwhile little loop out onto the Bolt Tail headland. The views in good conditions are very good indeed. You can look back with pleasure over the stage just walked from Bigbury-on-Sea, with Burgh Island offshore. You will also be able to see across the entrance of Plymouth Sound to the pointed summit of Rame Head in Cornwall, and far beyond again to the Dodman. Inland, and to the north, the southern slopes of Dartmoor and the intrusive spoil heaps of the china clay workings are clearly visible, and to the east the tower of Galmpton church and the spire at Malborough can be seen.

Bolt Tail is the site of an Iron Age promontory fort, the only one on the South Devon coast. The next nearest ones are at Bindon Hill in Dorset to the east, and at Dodman Point in Cornwall to the west. The remains of the defensive rampart across the neck of the point are still very obvious. Soon after leaving the fort, the cove named Ramilles is a reminder of one of the most terrible shipwrecks in maritime history. This happened in 1760 when the troopship Ramilles ran ashore and sank; over 700 men were drowned, and only about 20 were saved.

In less than 1/2 mile (800 m) from the fort, the National Trust has provided a footpath which leads directly back to the square at Inner Hope, and this makes an interesting circular walk for those not wishing to walk too far along the coast path. For those who do, despite the ascent already accomplished, the path climbs steadily once more up to Bolberry Down.

The 6 1/2 miles (10.5 km) of coast path from Bolt Tail to Bolt Head is magnificent cliff top walking without too many ups and downs, apart from the descent to and the climb out of Soar Mill Cove. There are views forward as far as the Ham Stone off Soar Mill Cove, and to the west and inland there are long views over the lush rolling land of the South Hams.

Towards the end of Bolberry Down, just before the path turns slightly inland towards the car park, those who are observant may note a few concrete foundation slabs. This is all that remains of a war-time RAF Radar Station, then at the leading edge of technology and very hush-hush. This stretch of the path provides much of interest to the ornithologist. At all seasons of the year, in all kinds of weather, there are many varieties of birds to be seen and it is a particularly good place for observing the kestrels soaring up on the thermals on the cliff face and sliding down the wind with effortless ease. Sparrowhawks, from inland farm country, are often seen hovering over the cliff tops, and the peregrine falcon with its breathtaking stoop is occasionally noted. Pipits, larks, yellowhammers, wheatears and many other varieties are almost as common as the gulls, which are never absent from this particular area.

Along West Cliff, and approaching Cathole Cliff, the heather and gorse are very much in evidence, and inland and forward is the characteristic metamorphic sharp outline ridge formation. At Cathole Cliff the path drops steeply to Soar Mill Cove; unfortunately, owing to erosion, the ridge path has been abandoned for a new one which veers left using an engineered zigzag descending to a stream. Stop to read the inscription on the old stout wooden post just over the stream. The path then passes behind the cove, but many will wish to go down to the beach for a picnic or swimming stop.

Off Soar Mill Cove and a little to the south is the Ham Stone, and it was between this rock and the towering cliff that the famous old four-masted Finnish windjammer, the Herzogin Cecile, was wrecked in 1936.

The climb out of Soar Mill Cove is not as steep as was the descent from Cathole Cliff, but, although spectacular, it does rise from sea level to 400 feet (122 m) in one steady climb. Be careful to keep to the seaward path here.

Soon after the top of the climb, if you look inland you can see a small tower-like building; this was an old Admiralty Signal Station. Further inland there was also a World War II airfield.

The path at the top is now very easy level walking, passing Off Cove, where, right ahead between the Bolt Head promontory and rugged Sharp Tor, is a splendid forward view of the sea off Starehole Bay. However do not be beguiled by bad waymarking into going that way; if you do, like many before you, you will miss Bolt Head whose views surpass anything you have yet seen on this section.

At the end of a long stretch of open type heathland, you enter a field. About two thirds across this bear right and down to a pedestrian gate, which could not be seen when you entered that field. The path then dips a little, climbs and bears curving round to the right, to cross a stile. Here you go forward for about 20 yards (18 m) and bear right down between the imposing structures of wind-eroded rock formations. This is the better path; there is another right of way going straight forward but it is not the coast path and you will miss out on Bolt Head if you take it. At Bolt Head you have the opportunity to climb to and view the scene from the old lookout.

There are always ravens in this area, and their grim, gruff croaking strikes a sombre, but appropriate note among the forbidding frown of the rock piles. From the top of Bolt Head the twin radio masts of the Start Point station can be seen, and south of eastward is the white lookout on Prawle Point, the most southerly point of Devon. Just off Bolt Head is the Mew Stone and the little Mew Stone, and they are so called because all gulls were indiscriminately called Mews, so that Mew Stone is only another way of saying Gull Rock.

The coast path now turns northward to leave Bolt Head, and there is a well-positioned seat within yards which provides another splendid viewpoint. Clearly to be seen is the rocky north shore of Starehole Bay, but the entrance to the Salcombe-Kingsbridge estuary is still hidden behind the towering Sharp Tor. The path now passes around Starehole Bay.

If you are walking this route for the first time, continue with the coast path as described below. However if you have walked it before, there is a splendid high level alternative. At the low point behind Starehole Bay, turn sharp left up Starehole Bottom and bear right just before you come to a wall to cross a stile on the right. The path climbs north-eastwards, ignore a left turn and the path then bears due east to come out on the top of Sharp Tor with its topograph. Having surveyed the view, and if you wish, peered over the edge to the coast path below, go north again to go down steps and turn right at the path T-junction to descend past Overbecks, see below, and so down the lane to pick up the coast path once again.

Although it was at the Ham Stone that the Herzogin Cecilie received her death-blow, her last resting place is beneath the waters of Starehole Bay. She was the last of the great sailing grain carriers, and she was as stubborn in her dying as she had been steadfast in her living. After the wrecking at Soar Mill Cove, she was towed into Salcombe for repairs, but the gallant old ship was mortally wounded and found to be beyond repair. She was towed out of Salcombe and run aground in Starehole Bay, and in 1939 she finally found a last resting place in the bay. It took her three years to die, and when she died there also died the age of those great tall ships that wrote heroic chapters in the history of maritime commerce. When the sea is very still and clear you can, just occasionally, see the remains of the wreck.

The coast path up from Starehole Bay under the loom of Sharp Tor is rocky but very good, and the views to seaward are very fine. The bony shoulder of Sharp Tor closes in upon the path with the seeming intent of pushing it into the sea below, but the path clambers up, sidles around the rocky shoulder of the Tor and immediately presents to view the unique and delightful Salcombe estuary - in summertime a picture postcard view of blue water, wooded slopes and the coloured sails of yachts in the estuary. The path now begins a gentle rise through a shady well-wooded area, the first woodland walk on the whole stretch from Bigbury-on-Sea. The woodland is a pleasing mixture of oak, chestnut, pine and other varieties. This part of the coast path is known as the Courtenay Walk, after the Earl of Devon’s family who first instituted it.

Up to the left where the walk joins the road, is the lane to Overbecks, a Youth Hostel leased from the National Trust who acquired the property by gift in 1937 from the owner, Herr Overbeck, whose private dwelling it was originally. In addition to the Youth Hostel, there is a small museum of particular interest to children and also a garden with fine specimens of the sub-tropical plants that flourish in the congenial climate of the South Hams.

The steep winding road, which is also the route of the coast path, descends to the area known as South Sands where there is another lifeboat Station identical to the one at Inner Hope, and it was to this station that the Hope Cove Lifeboat was posted before being passed onto Salcombe. There is also a ferry service from here in summer which you can use if you wish to miss the road walk into Salcombe itself.

The coast path is on the road from South Sands to North Sands with a steep little ascent and then descent. On the road between is Froude Road, named after the celebrated historian James Anthony Froude, best known for his biography of Thomas Carlyle written 'with more frankness than judgement'. Froude lived, died and was buried at Salcombe.

From North Sands can be seen the squat ruined tower of Fort Charles or Salcombe Castle that remains as the last relic of an artillery fort built by Henry VIII to protect the Salcombe Harbour entrance. It later became a Royalist garrison during the Civil War, and was in action against the Parliamentarians whose artillery was sited among the earthworks on the Portlemouth side of the estuary. There is no record of any serious attempt by the roundheads to reduce the fortress, nor does the garrison seem to have made any determined effort to break out or carry the war to the enemy. Both sides seem to have been content to sit it out and wait upon events to decide their future. It was however the last Royalist stronghold in Devon to surrender in 1646.

The route of the coast path is now very urban in character and proceeds along the road into Salcombe. The War Memorial on the right as the route passes into Salcombe pays tribute not only to the fallen of the two wars, but also to the thirteen brave men who lost their lives in a lifeboat disaster on October 27th, 1916. Just beyond the War Memorial, on the right, are the steps leading down to the passenger ferry which plies the estuary to East Portlemouth, where the next stretch of the South Devon section begins.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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