Great South West Walk

Friday August 3

Section 6. DARTMOUTH TO BRIXHAM. Miles: 10.8. Grading: Strenuous

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at the Lower Ferry slipway on the Kingswear side,
outside the Paignton to Dartmouth Steam railway offices at midday.
The walk will commence at 12.30pm.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus Services
First Western National (01752 402060)
93 - Dartmouth – Kingsbridge – Plymouth
111 – Dartmouth – Totnes – Torquay
66 – Brixham – Torquay
Stagecoach Devon (01803 664500)
22/23/24 Kingswear – Brixham
200 – Kingswear – Paignton – Torquay
12 – Brixham – Paignton – Torquay – Newton Abbot (until late evening)
46 – Brixham – Torquay – Exeter
National Express have daily services to
and from Brixham, Paignton (more frequent) and Totnes

Trains
There are railway stations at Plymouth and Totnes (both on the main Great Western Railway route) and Paignton and Torquay.
Paignton & Dartmouth Steam Railway: Queens Park Station, Torbay Road, Paignton, TQ4 6AF. Tel: 01803 555872. This delightful railway runs mainly seasonal services between Kingswear and Paignton.

Maps
Landranger Series (scale 1:50,000) No.202 Torbay & South Dartmoor.
Outdoor Leisure Series (scale 1:25,000) No.20 South Devon.

General Information
Dartmouth:accommodation, shops (including a chemist), pubs, car parks.
Kingswear:very limited accommodation, pub,
Berry Head:car park, toilets, seasonal café (situated by the entrance of the fort).
Brixham:accommodation, shops (including a chemist), pubs, car parks.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES
Dartmouth: The Engine House, Mayors Avenue, Dartmouth, TQ6 9YY. Tel: 01803 834224.
Brixham: Old Market House, The Quay, Brixham, TQ5 8TB. Tel: 01803 852861.

FERRIES
Dartmouth to Kingswear: Dartmouth to Kingswear: The Lower Ferry, the Passenger Ferry and the Higher Ferry all run frequently throughout the day.

TAXIS
Dartmouth Carr's Taxis 01803 835035
Devon Taxis 833778
Bluebird Taxis 833522
Admiral Taxis 834315
Kingswear Kingswear Taxis 01803 752626 (Jeff Merrell)
Mrs Burnell 752649 (private hire)
Brixham Brixham Taxi Rank 01803 856367
A1 Taxis 883883
Brixham Taxis 853000
Radio Taxis 882090
Phoenix Taxis 883260/883333
(negotiate approximate fare first if calling a Brixham taxi to Kingswear)
National Taxi hotline (free) – 0800 654321

BOATS
Dart Pleasure Craft (01803 834488) have daily services in the season between
Dartmouth and Totnes.
Western Lady Ferry Service (01803 852041/297292) runs regular boats between
Brixham and Torquay from May to October.

NATIONAL TRUST PROPERTY
Coleton Fishacre. Tel. 01803 752466.
National Trust shop, 8 The Quay, Dartmouth.

The Route
This section of the Coast Path contains some excellent scenery and much of
interest along its route. It certainly has some strenuous ups and downs, particularly
between the Coleton Fishacre valley and Southdown Cliff, and along much of the path there is no chance of obtaining refreshment. Although unlikely to be required by walkers, there is a bus service from the top of Fore Street, Kingswear, to
Brixham.

Probably the main places of interest for travellers of the path will be the old towns of Dartmouth and Brixham, the steam railway at Kingswear and the Berry Head
Country Park, but there are other places which will also appeal and interest.

DARTMOUTH

This is a picturesque and interesting old town, extending on the hillside, just within the mouth of the River Dart. There is a deep water sheltered harbour, in use for hundreds of years, with old quays, medieval houses and spectacular views across the busy river to Kingswear with its two marinas. In the 12th century ships for the second and third Crusades left from here and in 1620 the Pilgrim Fathers’ ships Speedwell and Mayflower anchored here before sailing to America. More recently on D-Day in the Second World War an armada of ships left here with American troops for Normandy.

There are four churches in the town; St. Saviour’s in the centre of town dates from the 14th century, whilst the Church of St. Petrox, within the castle precinct is on a site where a church has stood since the 6th century.

Probably Dartmouth's most famous buildings are those of the Britannia Royal Naval College, where naval officers are trained. For about 60 years until 1905 the ‘Britannia’ training ship was stationed in the harbour but was then replaced by the present splendid range of buildings situated on a hill slope above the town.

Dartmouth Castle, built in the 1480s to defend the town against attack from the sea, is owned by English Heritage and is open to the public. If you don't want to walk there, you can in the summer months take the ferry which runs from the South
Embankment to the castle and back.

Also worth a visit is The Butterwalk (Duke Street) with fascinating buildings dating from the early 1600s and Bayards Cove where there are the ruins of an old
fortification and where part of the BBC series ‘The Onedin Line’ was filmed. There are plenty of pleasure boat trips and the upriver trip to Totnes is most interesting, usually with a commentary on what is to be seen along the way. If you have time to spare you are recommended to take the river trip to Totnes, a most charming old town and one of the oldest boroughs in the country, then bus to Paignton and return to Kingswear on the steam railway, although sadly this only runs in the summer months.

This is a fashionable area for the yachting fraternity, there are plenty of eating places and a good range of shops, including a National Trust Shop. There is also a large Tourist Information Centre and of course plenty of holiday accommodation is
available. For further information see ‘Dartmouth - A Brief Historical Guide’ or ‘Dartmouth Town Centre Walk’, both available from the Information Centre.

DARTMOUTH TO BRIXHAM

When the time comes to leave Dartmouth along the Coast Path, the first thing is to cross the River Dart, but unlike some other rivers along the path, this will be no problem, for there are no less than three ferries all operating on a daily basis and with very frequent services to Kingswear. The ferries are all different types of craft but the
majority of walkers will probably take the lower ferry, as, if one is walking from the west this is the first ferry you come to. This ferry consists of flat types of platform on which vehicles and foot passengers travel and they are pushed and pulled across the river by small tug-like boats secured alongside them. The next nearest is the
passenger ferry which runs from a pontoon landing stage along the embankment by the old railway station building, now a restaurant, and they are the usual motor boats, with a cabin for protection in bad weather. This ferry runs to the jetty of the steam
railway station at Kingswear, close by the lower ferry slipway. Finally at the end of the North Embankment is the higher ferry, again a vehicle and foot passenger operation with the title of the Dartmouth Kingswear Floating Bridge.

Having crossed the River Dart, probably the main item of interest will be the station of the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway from where in summer months a steam train service operates to Paignton via Churston and Goodrington Sands. Remember Kingswear will be your last chance for the purchase of refreshments until you reach Berry Head. To continue on your way pass through the arch by the lower ferry slipway (there is a signpost, but as it is in a shop window you may well miss it) and go up Alma Steps to
Beacon Road where you turn right

The route now continues along a road, gently ascending above the River Dart, with glimpses of the Dart estuary below you on the right, through houses and trees. After about 0.5 mile (800 m) and approximately 50 yards (40m) after a left turn, you will find a flight of wooden steps on your right leading down into a valley, signposted Coast Path Froward Point 1.25 miles. Beside the steps a memorial plaque tells you that this section of the path through Warren Woods, which was opened in 1984, is dedicated to the memory of Lt. Col. H Jones VC OBE who died in the Falklands.

Descend now to Mill Bay Cove and pass a small castellated building (marked Dangerous) which used to be a mill, then climb quite steeply upwards to
follow the path for about 1 mile (1.6 km) to Froward Point. An unusual feature here are the Monterey Pines with which the area is planted and which suffered considerable damage in the severe storms of 1989, to such an
extent that the Coast Path was blocked and had to be closed for several weeks, until the fallen trees were cleared. In a clear area you will soon get a view backwards along the estuary to see both Dartmouth Castle on the other bank and opposite Kingswear Castle which you have passed above, along the way. This castle is now owned by the Landmark Trust and we hope that one day the path will be diverted to pass through the castle grounds.

You will now enter the National Trust area of Higher Brownstone named after a nearby farm, and shortly the path forks where you should take the waymarked more interesting seaward path although the two paths in fact join again in about 300 yards (274 m). Continue now to a level area with a
signpost and several derelict buildings, part of the Inner Froward Point Coast Defence Battery which was a World War II gun battery.

The old battery buildings are scattered amongst the pines with gun positions on the cliff face connected by ramps to their magazines and below two searchlight positions with commanding views to sea. A massive undergrowth clearance operation by the National Trust during 2000 has opened up the whole area, and you can now wander about to inspect the coastal defences built during World War II to repulse possible military invasion.

The signpost shows three ways forward:- to H G Brownstone Car Park 1 mile (see below): Link to Coast Path Brixham 8.5 miles (not recommended) and Coast Path to Brixham 8.75 miles which you should follow. This path
descends by the western end of the old lookout buildings through the old battery buildings and gun platforms to the level of the old searchlight positions where you have good views of the nearby island, The Mew Stone. Just
before the second searchlight position the path turns up to ascend to the main track again where you turn right.

However, before descending through the old battery, we recommend that you first follow the path signed to the Higher Brownstone Car Park and in a few yards you come to another signpost showing two ways forward: one is another link to the Coast Path and the other continues to High Brownstone. Take the latter and in about 0.25 mile (400 m) you will reach the Daymark, preserved by the National Trust.

This unusual tower-like structure built of stone is 80 feet (27 m) high and was built in 1864 by the Dart Harbour Commissioners as a daylight navigational aid to help in
finding the entrance to the estuary. It is still used today particularly by small pleasure craft.

Now return the way you have come and at the first signpost you reach you can if you wish turn left along the track, the link to the Coast Path, but we recommend you continue back to the battery buildings and take the true Coast Path mentioned above. Whichever route you take they join again in approximately 350 yards (250 m).

Continue along the track for a short distance when you have another choice: the signpost offers you a right turn, Coast Path to Brixham which follows the coast round the rocky promontory of Outer Froward Point or the higher inland route, yet another link path, but via a view point. Whichever path you take they join again shortly above a small stream.

Again you have areas of National Trust land to pass through and some link paths leading inland. Descend to cross the stream then climb to a signpost; inland is to another N T car park but you continue forward heading for
Pudcombe Cove. Just before the cove there is a link path inland to Coleton Farm and before descending steeply to the valley floor look for the remains of the old swimming pool on the beach.

Pudcombe Cove is at the end of the wooded valley where between 1925 and 1940 Lady Dorothy D'Oyly Carte (of Gilbert & Sullivan fame) created the beautiful gardens of Coleton Fishacre, containing many rare and tropical plants which thrive in the
sheltered climatic conditions. These National Trust gardens of 20 acres and the house are open to the public.

At the valley bottom cross the stream then climb up to more level ground, with a last look backward at the Daymark before continuing the pleasant walk to Scabbacombe Sands. At Ivy Cove there is a sign to the car park at
Coleton Camp, another wartime site, and a similar sign further on but follow the signs for Scabbacombe Sands and as you round Scabbacombe Head superb views appear of the sands and Long Sands with Sharkham Point and Berry Head beyond.

The path now descends steeply to the sands of Scabbacombe then climbs again to enter the National Trust land of Woodhuish, with yet another inland link path to a car park, then follows the cliff above Long Sands.

This is a pleasant near-level stretch with good views until you descend across the back of Crabrock Point to pass behind the cottages to the beach at Man Sands. The 19th century cottages were built for coastguards but are now converted to holiday use and the beach is popular in summer.

This is a good place to reflect on the fact that it is only in the 1980s that the Coast Path from Mill Bay Cove to Man Sands was created. Before then there was no coast path and an inland route had to be followed between these points. We are much
indebted to the Countryside Agency, National Trust and the dedication in memory of Col. Jones for the wonderful path that now exists.

Now comes the steepest ascent on the route, to the National Trust land of Southdown Cliff, but followed by an enjoyable level walk until the descent to Sharkham Point. The route goes out round the headland, a level grassy area much favoured as a summer picnic spot with fine views and known as an unusual geological area with differing rock types. At the far side of the headland a signpost, Coast Path Berry Head, will direct you to a tarmac track, at present in bad repair, where you turn right.

In a few yards comes a flight of steps descending on the right, but only take these if you wish to go down to the beach for a swim. Instead go up the four steps on your left to continue above the wide sweep of the beautiful St Mary's Bay. Now comes increasing evidence of the attractions of the area to tourists, with a chalet camp to be passed at the sign 1.25 miles to Berry Head. The Coast Path here is much used by holiday makers as it hugs the cliff edge, passing Durl Head with its interesting folded limestone strata, to draw level with the two rocks offshore; one is Cod Rock and the nearer is the Mew Stone - but not to be confused with the Mew Stone you passed at
Froward Point! Now you enter the Borough of Torbay's Berry Head Country Park.

BERRY HEAD

This is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Nature Reserve. Many parts of the Napoleonic Forts have Ancient Monument status and the seabird colonies are classed as an Area of Special Protection, and, if possible, you should take time to explore it fully. The headland, purchased by Torbay Borough Council in 1969 and designated a Country Park to protect its features and safeguard public access, is an outcrop of
Devonian Limestone ending in cliffs 200 feet (61 m) high and a home for many plants and breeding seabirds including guillimots, fulmars, kittiwakes and gulls.

After you enter the park the path splits, the left goes inland to the road near the car park entrance, but take the right hand path signposted Berry Head via Fort which goes first to the Southern Fort. The path turns left there alongside the wall and dry moat to descend to the car park but we suggest you follow the moat round to enter the old ruined fort. This is one of the two forts built in the early 19th century during the Napoleonic Wars but never needed, and a notice board inside describes the buildings and
fortifications.

After exploring the fort descend to the car park, (by the road is a large display map of the area) and visit the information centre near the car park entrance where there are also public toilets. The centre, open in the summer, also has a Royal Society for the Protection of Birds display and a television screen shows live pictures of the nesting birds from a video camera at the cliff face, with a guide to tell you what is on view. You can obtain here a useful leaflet on exploring Berry Head, ‘A Historical Walk’.

Now proceed towards the Northern Fort but on the way visit a strange
futuristic looking metal structure on your left. Another board gives a full description of this Radio Navigation Beacon giving aircraft range and
bearing information, up to a distance of 85 miles (137 km). A visit to the Northern Fort really is essential; the old guardhouse just inside is now a cafe and a walk out to the headland brings you to the coastguard station and then to the Lighthouse, the smallest there is, but its light is visible for up to 20 miles (32 km). A nearby orientation table gives the distance of points visible as far away as Portland Bill.

Having had your fill of the Country Park head north west along the road from the Northern Fort to follow a descending track to the road. Turn right and shortly by the Berry Head Hotel bear left down Berry Head Road. When level with the Breakwater descend steps on your right to join the promenade which passes by the marina and takes you to the inner harbour and town centre.

BRIXHAM

Brixham has been an important fishing port for centuries and the harbour, which
retains much of its character, still houses a considerable trawler fleet. A statue
commemorates the landing here of William of Orange in 1688. Now a sprawling holiday resort there is not much of architectural interest but guidance and help can be obtained from the Tourist Information Centre right beside the harbour and there is plenty of holiday accommodation and places to eat and drink.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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