Great South West Walk

Sunday August 5

Section 9.SHALDON TO EXMOUTH. Miles: 7.9. Grading: Easy

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at the Teignmouth Tourist Information Centre in The Den at 9am.
The walk will commence at 9.30am.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus Services
Buses run between Shaldon and Exmouth via Exeter. It is essential that you obtain confirmation of bus services from traveline on 0870 608 2608 www.traveline.org.uk

Trains
It is possible to get a train from Teignmouth all the way to Exmouth on the Avocet Line. This stops at Starcross, Exeter, Topsham and Exmouth amongst others, but do check your journey carefully. For information you should ring National Rail Enquiries on 08457 484950.

Maps
Ordnance Survey Landranger series (scale 1:50 000) Number 192 Exeter and Sidmouth.
Ordnance Survey Explorer series (scale 1:25 000) Number 110 Torquay and Dawlish.

General Information
Teignmouth: accommodation, shops (including a chemist), pubs, cafés, toilets, car parks and public telephones.
Dawlish: accommodation, shops (including a chemist), pubs, cafés, toilets, car parks and public telephones.
Dawlish Warren: accommodation, shops (including a chemist), pubs, cafés, toilets, car parks and public telephones.
Exmouth: accommodation, shops (including a chemist), pubs, cafés, toilets, car parks and public telephones.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
The Den, Teignmouth, TQ14 8BE. Tel 01626 779679
The Lawn, Dawlish, EX7 9AP. Tel 01626 863589
Alexandra Terrace, Exmouth, EX8 1NZ Tel: 01395 222299

The Route
Much of this section is very urban, involving some unpleasant road walking, but there are several places of interest in Shaldon, Teignmouth and Dawlish, and several good viewpoints along the way. There is also a description of the complete estuarine walk around the River Exe towards the end of this booklet.

SHALDON

Shaldon displays an attractive variety of 19th century houses and cottages, has a pleasant beach, accommodation and refreshments. There has been a ferry operating from Shaldon to Teignmouth since the 13th century – the present boat is reputed to be the oldest working ferry boat in the country.

SHALDON TO EXMOUTH

(The distance relates to the walker using the Starcross Ferry. Deduct 1.5 miles [2.5 km] if the Exmouth Water Taxi service is used, or add 10.6 miles [17 km] if the walking route to Exmouth via Topsham is taken.)

The ferry leaves the foreshore at the end of the Marine Parade. It operates throughout the year, with a 20 minute service. There is a road bridge 0.5 mile (800 m) up the river, should for any reason, the ferry not be working.

TEIGNMOUTH

Teignmouth developed in the 18th and 19th centuries and has become a very popular holiday resort. It has some fine sandy beaches, with safe bathing. There was a small settlement at the mouth of the river in Anglo Saxon times. In 1690 a raiding force of French ships attacked the town and set fire to most of the houses. It has long had an active port: in the 1820s, granite from Dartmoor was loaded here to be shipped to London, where it was used to build the Embankment, London Bridge and the British Museum, among other things. Nowadays it exports ball clay from the Bovey Basin all over the world, despite silting-up difficulties in the estuary entrance.

The lifeboat station, active since 1851, is open to visitors. There is plenty of bed and breakfast accommodation, but the town does become very busy in the season.

Having landed on the Teignmouth foreshore, walk past the lifeboat station, lighthouse and pier, along the Den Promenade and hence onto the Sea Wall promenade.

HIGH TIDE ROUTE: Should it be high tide or getting so, you will have problems getting into Smugglers Lane, at the end of the sea wall, where the path becomes an underpass beneath the railway below high tide level. A diversion will be necessary by going up East Cliff Walk (just before the Corinthian Yacht Club), and walking along the A379 to Holcombe Cross. There is a bus service between Teignmouth and Dawlish.

LOW TIDE ROUTE: If the tide is low, continue the walk along the sea wall. Here you meet the railway: as this will dominate our walk into Dawlish Warren it is appropriate at this point to mention a little about it.

BRUNEL’S RAILWAYS

Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s broad gauge line had reached Exeter in 1844. He had surveyed the route to Plymouth, crossed the Teign and Dart as early as 1836. The South Devon Railway Bill was given the Royal assent in 1844. Brunel decided to experiment with an Atmospheric railway between Exeter and Newton Abbot.

The idea was simple - stationary engines pumped air out from a continuous pipe laid between the rails, thus creating a partial vacuum. The top of this pipe was slotted and fitted with a hinged leather seal. The leading vehicle, the piston carriage, had a rod connecting it to a close fitting piston inside the pipe. Air was let in behind the piston, creating a pressure difference across the piston forcing the carriage forward. The pipe was resealed after the passage of the train. A service was promised into Teignmouth by 1845, but it was not until May 1846, that the first trains reached the town, and these were pulled by steam engines.

The first atmospheric train ran in September 1847. After an initial success achieving high speeds, smoothness and cleanliness, many technical problems were to haunt Brunel. The worst was the disintegration of the leather used for the sealing valve on top of the pipe. The whole scheme was abandoned in September 1848, and steam trains took over the line. To provide the vacuum, eleven pumping engine houses were built along the line, these became known as ‘Brunel’s Follies’. One is still standing at Starcross, and on our walking route. In spite of the failure of this experiment Brunel’s line from Paddington to Penzance was a great engineering achievement.

At the end of the sea wall the path goes under the railway into Smugglers Lane. The rail track disappears into the Parson’s Tunnel, the first of five before the railway reaches Dawlish, the other four being: The Clerk, Phillot, Coryton and Kennaway Tunnels. The first two were named after the two sandstone sea stacks, and the other three after the landowners through whose estates the tunnels were driven.

Walk up Smugglers Lane to Holcombe Cross and the very busy A379.

Coast path continues

Cross the A379, taking great care, turn right up the hill for about 150 yards (135 metres); recross the main road into Windward Lane and bear left. A waymarked path between hedges is on your left, giving respite from traffic noise: it soon emerges onto a splendid grassy viewpoint overlooking Lyme Bay. On a clear day you can see as far as Portland Bill – all that path yet to enjoy! You now go steeply down steps back to the railway, where excellent views of the tunnel entrances again emphasise Brunel’s engineering courage, across a stream, round a field edge and back up steps to the A379 again. Bear right immediately into the old Teignmouth road; after 600 yards (579 m) it rejoins the main road, but (after some old iron railings on the right) the waymarked path soon leaves the noise of the road and leads through a small park, with many fine old trees, to zigzag down to the railway and Dawlish’s Marine Parade.

DAWLISH

Dawlish was originally a small fishing community sited up the valley from the sea. It developed like so many of the South Devon towns during the 18th and 19th centuries. The coming of the railway in 1846 also made a big difference to the town’s growth. Its station and railway dominate the sea front. There is plenty of bed and breakfast accommodation in the town, but in July and August it becomes very crowded, so best book in advance.

At low tide, it is possible to walk all the way to Dawlish Warren along the sea wall.

At high tide, an alternative route must be taken. A short way along the sea wall (just past the station) a railway notice warns you of high tide inaccessibility and directs you up across the footbridge to join the Exeter road. Continue along there until the Rockstone Flats; a footpath just before them, bearing left at its first fork, brings you on to the coast path, although the official route is signed after the flats and some shops, where the Dawlish Warren road forks off. From here it is a pleasant high-level walk until dropping into Dawlish Warren.

Geology is always a subject very present to any coast path walker. The cliffs round Teignmouth and Dawlish largely consist of breccia rock, which is composed of a course mixture of many types of rock, deposited during periods of flash flooding and violent weather sequences in the otherwise dry desert condition of Permian times. If you have been able to walk along the sea wall, the cliffs behind the railway contain evidence of the desert conditions which prevailed at this time, fossilised sand dunes can be seen. Just before Langstone rock, high up in the cliff face, river terrace gravel can be seen which related to an old estuary level of the river Exe.

DAWLISH WARREN

Dawlish Warren is a very popular holiday resort with large caravan and chalet parks and leisure facilities, including a golf course. The Warren itself is a National Nature Reserve, noted for rare flowers such as the Warren Crocus, and many seabirds, ducks and waders. It is particularly interesting in spring and autumn when thousands of migrating birds congregate on the mudflats. There is a public bird hide, and a Visitors’ Centre (open weekends, and weekdays during school holidays) with lots of information and helpful staff – well worth a visit.

If you are continuing on to Exmouth, now is the time to be thinking of crossing the River Exe. Your choices are:

The official route is by using the Starcross Ferry

Walk along the road from Dawlish Warren to Starcross, which is an unpleasantly busy stretch of road with no footpath for much of the way. The Starcross Ferry runs hourly from mid-April to the end of October – full details are in the Association’s Annual Guide, but we do recommend you contact the operator direct before relying on this service on 01626 862452.

2. Another route is by using the Exe Water Taxi

This runs from daily from 1st April until 3rd September, from 10 am to 5 pm, weather permitting. It is essential that you ring 07970 918418 before relying on this service to find out if and when it is running, and to arrange a time for them to pick you up. If you are lucky enough to arrange this, head out towards the bird hide and turn right when you reach the shore to the ‘landing point’ notice.

Walk around the Exe Estuary (add 10.6 miles / 17 km)
(Please note that this is not the complete estuarine walk around the Exe—this 16.5 mile/26.5 km walk can be found before the information section of this Path
Description.)

Continue along the road through Starcross, then after the car park veer right onto a much more peaceful road to Powderham Church.

You pass Powderham Castle, home of the Courtenays, Earls of Devon, with herds of deer and flocks of geese in the attractive grounds. The castle is open to the public on most days from May to September.

As the road turns left to the Church, a path leads off across the railway line and follows the river up to the Turf Hotel (good refreshments), and then along the Ship Canal until a bridge crosses the canal to where the year round ferry to Topsham operates – ring ahead on 0780 1203338 to confirm.

Once across the river you have to get to Exmouth and we are inclined to suggest the frequent bus service or train service but failing this the walk as far as Lympstone will be on the road except for a small footpath section between Clyst Bridge and Ebford. From Lympstone there is a riverside path to Exmouth, now part of the East Devon Way - look for the mauve markers featuring a foxglove.

4. Use public transport

You can opt out altogether and take a bus or train to Exeter (some trains go on directly to Exmouth) and enjoy time in this fine cathedral city before catching a bus or train to Exmouth.

EXMOUTH

Exmouth was first a hamlet, then a small town, a busy port and today is a pleasant seaside resort. The town first became fashionable during Napoleonic times. There is a row of elegant Georgian houses on the Beacon, where both Lady Nelson and Lady Byron lived. The wide sandy beach is superb for the family holiday. Once again do watch your bed and breakfast accommodation during the peak holiday times.

This version by June Haywood, August 2003.
(Original text by Ken Franey, 1991, revised by Dennis Martin 1998.)

As we tell you in this Path Description, crossing the River Exe may well be one of your problems, and although we detail a variety of ways of achieving this, you may be forced by circumstances to take the inland route from Dawlish Warren to Exmouth, or may indeed prefer to walk it anyway. This lengthy route enjoys some attractive estuarine and canal paths, but also some unpleasant road walking.

Please be advised that you need to watch out for cyclists. As on the Tarka Trail in North Devon, many cyclists do not give any audible warning of their approach, and this is particularly bad on the road to Topsham, where pedestrians and cyclists have to share a narrow piece of pavement.

Dawlish Warren to Turf Locks - approx. 5 miles (8 km)

Walk along the road from Dawlish Warren to Starcross, which is an unpleasantly busy stretch of road with no footpath for much of the way.

Starcross

Starcross has pubs, a post office and one of Brunel's old Atmospheric Railway Pumping Houses, which was previously a museum but is now closed. In the centre of the village you will find, all together, the pier for the ferry to Exmouth, the railway station, a bus stop and toilets.

The Exe Valley Way

Running from Starcross to Countess Weir, you will be following this long distance route for walkers, and you will see signs confirming this. This river valley walk between coast and moor is almost 45 miles (72 km) long and it ends at Hawkridge on Exmoor.

Immediately after passing the station, take the path alongside the railway which soon passes through a large car park to a picnic area to emerge onto the road again at a junction. Here, leave the A379, taking the road to the right, signposted ' Powderham 1.5 miles'. Although this is yet another road walk, there is much less traffic now, and you have good views to the left to Powderham Castle, and probably sights of their deer herd.

Powderham Castle

This medieval castle, historic family home of the Earls of Devon since 1390, is open to the public in the summer months, except on Saturdays (telephone 01626 890243 for details).

On reaching Powderham Church, turn right at a footpath sign, along a track for about 200 yards (185 m) to cross the railway line and reach the estuary sea wall. TAKE CARE - Do be very careful when crossing the railway; the trains pass here at high speed and people have been hit and killed at this crossing.
The Exe Estuary

With its extensive reedbeds, salt marshes, mud and sandbanks, the Exe Estuary is noted for its bird life, especially from late autumn to early spring. Large flocks of oyster-catchers, dunlin, godwits, Brent geese and widgeon etc. may be seen, and, in winter, a flock of avocets.

Now continue northwards along the riverside path, with splendid views of the estuary and its bird life for about 1 mile (1500 m) until you reach the Turf Hotel (refreshments available), which is situated at Turf Lock, where the Exeter Canal discharges traffic into the River Exe.

Exeter Ship Canal

The canal originated in the 1560s to enable ships to bypass the weir on the river and reach Exeter, but it was not until 1825 that it was finally extended to Turf. The coming of the railway in the 1840s led to its decline and today it is mainly used by pleasure craft.

Turf Locks to Topsham – approx. 5 miles (8 km)

There now follows a pleasant towpath walk along the western bank of the canal; in 1 25 miles (2 km) you come to a bridge over the canal (which you do not cross) which allows access to the river ferry to Topsham, then continue north-eastwards for another 0.75 mile (1200 m) when you will pass under the M5 motorway.

You now have just over a further mile to walk alongside the canal to emerge onto the road at the Countess Wear swing bridge, which allows canal traffic to proceed on to Exeter. Turn right along Bridge Road, crossing first the swing bridge and, in about 80 yards (73 m), cross the bridge over the River Exe, then continue for a few yards then turn right down Glasshouse Lane and you now commence the route on the eastern side of the river to reach Exmouth.

Continue down the lane for 0.25 mile (400 m) or so until the road turns left, and, immediately past a yellow thatched cottage, turn right at a signpost 'Topsham 1.5 miles'. The path you now follow has the river on its right and, after passing some buildings on your left, in about 350 yards (320 m), you descend some steps to an open grassy area.

At this point you have a choice of two paths. You can turn left, and in about 30 yards (28 m), turn right through a small copse, shortly passing a garden centre to emerge onto the main road to Topsham. Turn right and follow the road to central Topsham, which is about 1 mile (1500 m), but there is a footpath.

The alternative route goes straight ahead, across the open area, where you will find two paths, and the inland one is the way to go. However, there are warning signs (on the end of the path) to show that this 'Public footpath to Topsham is incomplete, passable with care at low tide'. You must now decide if tidal conditions will permit you to use this path in safety, and, if so, proceed with caution and some difficulty through the reed beds. You will see the bridge carrying the motorway about 0.5 mile (800 m) ahead and, when you reach this, the path improves greatly and you should have no difficulty from here on. Pass the Retreat Boatyard, and when the path becomes a road, continue forward into Topsham. Take great care along this section - it is a low tide route only.

Topsham

This small town, once a larger port than Exeter itself, contains shops, an interesting quay and many buildings from the 17th century. There are good examples of merchants' houses in the Dutch style and one of these is home to the Topsham Museum. Exeter, 3 miles (5 km) away, is connected by frequent bus and train services.

Topsham to Exmouth – approx. 6.5 miles (10.5 km)

As you proceed along Ferry Road, look for Follett Road on your left and turn up this, and after crossing the High Street, proceed into Station Road. Cross the railway line, and at a mini roundabout, turn right along Elm Grove Road, then shortly bear left along the main road to pass the Bridge Inn and cross the River Clyst.

Continue along the road for about 0.5 mile (800 m), and after crossing a small creek, turn right along a public footpath. Continue past buildings to enter a green lane, passing a large house, Four Winds, on your right. At a minor road, turn left and you shortly emerge onto the A376 road at Ebford.

Turn right, and you now have a 0 .5 mile (2 km) walk along this busy main road, though, fortunately, there is a footpath all the way. Pass the Royal Marines’ Commando Training Centre on your right, then shortly after passing the Nutwell Lodge Inn and Restaurant on your left, turn right down a road signposted 'Lower Lympstone'. At a road junction, go forward, 'Village Centre 0.5 mile', and where the road turns left, go forward down a footpath to reach the Exe Estuary again.

Immediately before the railway bridge, turn left to cross a metal bridge over the railway. Enter a playing field and follow the left hand hedge to exit through a kissing gate, then follow a short lane bearing left to a road, then turn right. This is the main street round the bottom of the village of Lympstone.

Lympstone

A picturesque riverside village, Lympstone has shops, pubs, toilets, a post office and a railway station on the Exmouth-Exeter line. Peter's Tower is an attractive red brick memorial clock tower.
Follow the road, ignoring the tempting Quay Lane on your right with its public footpath sign, and when the road reaches the river again, it will turn sharply inland. In a few yards and immediately before a railway bridge, turn right along a public footpath signposted 'East Devon Way', which you now follow to Exmouth.

The East Devon Way

This regional route gives an inland path from Exmouth to Uplyme, a distance of 40 miles (64 km). The chosen logo is the foxglove, which is common throughout the area, and this appears on the signs.

The path follows the railway line, later crossing it, but continuing to follow it, and where the road bears right, you turn right at a footpath sign to cross a football field, then the railway again to follow the path to the estuary.

This path soon leads into a series of car parks, and from the last of these you emerge onto the A376 at a mini roundabout. Cross this into the road opposite, with a garage on your right and then take the second road on the right, Victoria Road, signposted 'The Docks', and this will lead you to the Exmouth docks and ferry point, where the Starcross ferry lands, and you can now continue on the coast path.
Original estuarine route written by Frederick White, September 1998. (Starcross to Topsham updated by Liz Woollard, February 2005.)

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