Great South West Walk

Wednesday August 8

Section 14. ABBOTSBURY TO WEYMOUTH. Miles: 14. Grading: Easy

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at The Swannery in Abbotsbury at 8.30am.
The walk will commence at 9.00am.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus Services

Trains

Maps

General Information
Abbotsbury Shops, parking; refreshments; accommodation
Langton Herring Shop, refreshments; accommodation
Weymouth Tourist Information; toilets; parking; refreshments; accommodation; rail and bus stations.

The Route
This part of the South West Coast Path basically follows the inland shore of the Fleet and then passes through the outskirts of Weymouth. The Fleet is a lagoon sandwiched between the huge Chesil Bank. or Beach and the low lying coast of the mainland proper. It runs cont1nuously from Abbotsbury to its exit into Portland Harbour at Ferry Bridge.

While the walking is easy, parts of the route can be very wet in bad weather and at certain high tides. Although the path is never very far from villages and other urban areas there is little opportunity for refreshment without leaving the coast.

1. Abbotsbury to East Fleet 6 m1les (10km) Grade - Easy
2. East Fleet to Weymouth 7miles (12.5km) Grade - Easy

Abbotsbury to East Fleet (6.5 miles, 10 km)

The Fleet bank of Chesil Beach is closed from 1st May to 31st August during the swan nesting season. Walking on the seaward bank is not recommended. It is difficult, uninteresting, and can be too dangerous in bad weather. There is no escape route except to turn back to Abbotsbury.

Abbotsbury Village

In lO16 King Canute gave Abbotsbury to Orc and Fola who buklt a monastery. The Tithe Barn was built in the early 15th century, a fine thatched building originally used to store grain and produce paid as taxes. 272 feet long 31 feet wide, it is now a country museum that portrays the ingenu1ty and hardships of days past; the lives of the poacher, shepherd,blacksmith and farmworkers become vivid, amongst a collectiom of bygones and curios of yesteryear. (Open 1st April to 31st October daily 9.30am to 5.00pm.

THE TITHE BARN

The church of St Nichölas is just north of the tarn and has a 13th century marble monument of an abbot. The oak canopied pulit still has two bullet holes from the fighting in the Civil War.

Little remains today of the monastery which became corrupt before its destruction in the Dissolution. One exasperated monk wrote to Westminster saying that the abbot "..hath an abominable rule, with the keeping of women, not one or two or three, but many more".

The world famous Swannery, which supplied the monastery with fresh meat, is over four hundred years old. Its duck decoy is the oldest in Britain. The swan population of between 450 and 700 feeds on the plentiful Zostera Marina seaweed.
St Catherine's Chapel, standing like a stone outcrop on the summit of the 250 feet high Chapel HilI to the south west has a rare architectural feature in a stone tunnel-vault.
In Henry VIII's reign, Sir Giles Strangway bought it all for £l095.10s.0d on condition that the monastery was 'thrown down', and only the barn and chapel remained.

For the path purist Church Street is the former eastbound definitive route out of the village but we recommend the following:

From the centre of the village turn back westwards to 50 yards beyond the Post Office and turn left before the Chapel Yard Pottery. Continue South through a kissing gate and bear left along the wall. At the stream, another path joins from the west (this is the official coast path bypassing the village), cross the mock 'pack horse bridge with its modern concrete pipes under, left over a stile and past a huge plane tree. Left again, this time over a wall and bear right along the track which bears round to the east passing a car park and the entrance to the Swannery on the right and a car park to the left to join a tarmac road at Nunnery Grove where you bear right. Past a large barn at Horsepool Farm, where the road turns sharp right, you go straight ahead over two stiles towards a fingerpost sign on the skyline. Head up over the 'high peak' of Linton Hill, disregarding the sheep tracks that contour the hill. Over a double stile and the path squeezes between the south side of a barbed wire fence and the gorse scrub. This delightful mini ridge springs up unexpectedly between the valley to the north and the Fleet; even though this is not a true coast path, it sure feels good.
There are views of the Fleet behind and farm buildings below to the right. On 1st May each year Garland Day, a pagan ritual, sees rings of flowers rowed out into the Fleet and strewn onto the water to 'well-wish' the fisherman and their industry.
The next signpost points to B & B to the right (Clayhanger Farm) and forward on the coast path to East Fleet. Over a stile and the path changes to the inside of the field; through a gate and over a newly restored (1992) stone wall stile. Continue on same line over two more stiles with a path leaving to the north for West Elworth. Over another new stone stile in a rebuilt stone wall and bear down to the right through an eIder copse, which can be, and was, slippery in wet conditions, and on down the west side of two fields in a southerly direction adjacent to Hodders Copse.

At the bottom is a signpost directing to the east along the field edge, over a wooden bridge, a stream and a stile. Cross another field and stiles both sides of a minor road. Continue along the south side of the hedge to the field corner where a signpost points right to East Fleet (and to the left, Merry Hill Farm). At the south east corner of the field, left over the stile.

The fields ahead are an enchanting patchwork, and Langton herring nestles beyond the woods in the distance.

Follow the field boundary with Wyke Wood down to the right crossing a stile to reach a track to Bridge Lane where the signpost announces Weymouth for the first time.

Turn left and almost immediately another signpost, this time indicating 'East Fleet 2 miles Weymouth 7 miles’ is sited to bear you half left again across the low lying fields. (The day of our walk, it should be recorded that 'flood plain' would be a more accurate description! This is one of several references to getting wet - we are prepared to suffer for our art...)
Head over the field to where a signpost to Langton Herring "points over a stile (there is in fact a better route leaving the path a little later on) and the direction of the Coast Path. Continue to and over a stile a few yards to the west of a metal gate and be ar slightly to the right. Look for an opening 1n the hedge on the left and pass through it at the two gates.
(Here the better route to Langton Herring leads off left beside a wall, although not waymarked thus).
Along the path on the right are old, overgrown 'withy’ (willow) beds which would have been leased for cutting and using for
baskets and other,crafts.
Another signpost and turn right to rejoin the coast proper and begin to pass along the shores of the Fleet.
Fleet Sanctuary is the second oldest nture reserve in the country, dating back to 1393, to protect the swans in the Fleet. This is a brackish and non-tidal stretch of water at the top (west) end and is a wetland of international importance. When Yeats wrote about "... where the swan drifts upon a darkening flood...",he must have been here in November too!.
At Langton Hive Point there are usually boats along the shore line, and Langton Buildings can be seen up to the left. 'Hive' is an old English word for landing place.
A signpost for Langton Herring 1 mile to the north. Over a stile and across a track. Two or three more loops around the shoreline (a paddle perhaps?), then over stile. Another bridge but do not cross the stile ahead but turn right before the fence to a signpost. Westbound walkers leave the coast path at this point for Langton Herring, and those who have visited the same rejoin the route here.
Langton Herring is named after the Harangs, Lords ofthe Manor in the middle ages. The Elm Tree, a 16th century pub, has a beam in the public bar made from an old ship's mast from which a dishonest fisherman was hanged in 1780. Country folk have an uneasiness about elm trees which are reputed to drop heavy branches unexpectedly. H.L. Edlin said 'Elm hateth Man, and waiteth". Remember this if you are tempted to lunch in the shade of ones branches - sadly not so easy since Dutch Elm disease in 1976.
Proceed southwards keeping to the. west side of the wall (do not cross the stile over the wall) and continue along the path to a st1le by the water again. Drop down to the shoreline and then cut up through the copse away from the 'beach' as signposted.
The former coastguard cottages (Langton Buildings on most maps) behind on the skyline are worth a backwards glance.
At the next headland a bell tower and its ‚ship’ on the left, and a derelick boat house on the right indicates you have reached the Moonfleet Hotel.

The Moonfleet Hotel hag the Y-knot Bar, derived from the arms of the Mohune family, or Moons in the J. Meade Faulkner book 'Moonfleet'. A cross pall, on a shield which resembles a Y.

TO ALL MOHUNES
OF FLEET AND MOONFLEET
IN AGRO DORCESTRENSI
LIVING OR DEAD

Across another field and into a copse of tamarisk and willow trees,and over a bridge, and turn right at the signpost 'Weymouth - East Fleet' along the shoreline.

Beyond the copse is a signpost with a small plaque for Simon who, despite his handicap, was dedicated to this coast.
Across the grey Fleet swans take shelter, and ahead the Scots pines herald the approach to East Fleet.
At the headland with a pill box is a glimpse of the monument to Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy on Blackdown Hili. Built in 1844, and 70 feet high, some wag described it as a telephone receiver upside down, the old type of upright telephone of course.
A signpost near the shore indicates 'East Fleet and Church' or 'Abbotsbury and Coast Path'. This is East Fleet and close to the Path a tiny church.
"...Few enough folks came to Moonfleet church at any time, hut few still came that morning for the meadows between village and churchyard were wet and miry from the water. There were streamers of seaweed tangled about the very tombstones, and against the outside of the churchyard wall was piled up a great bank of it, from which came a salt, rancid smell like a guillemot's egg..."
East Fleet village was destroyed by the great gale of 1824 when the sea inundated the village - a boat was thrown into the churchyard from the Fleet in the storm. Contraband was stored in an underground vault - even the secret
passage leading out to the churchyard was used in 'Moonfleet' and young John Trenchard was trapped with a corpse in the same vault! The south wall of the church bears a brass plaque to John Meade Faulkner the author.

East Fleet to Weymouth – 7.75 miles (12.5 km)

From the signpost continue eastwards over the footbridge and the stile ahead and along the field edge to the next stile.
Here, and along several sections of this path, you may see the reeds used for thatching, comparable for strength and durability to none.

Next stile off to the left goes to the campsite, so carry on the right hand (coast) path. Drop down to the shoreline, a few steps, and up over a stile and continue along the field edge to the Fleet Sanctuay notice. This, a similar spot to'Langton Hive Point, is actually Chickerell Hive Point (left to Crook Hill and Old Coastguard Cottages.

Mackerel are plentiful off this coast in spring tides. The row of Nissan huts ahead are not a page from Thomas the Tank Engine books, but Chickerell Army Camp – the first of many military installations that you come across on the Dorset coast.

Find the next stile behind a shed, and follow the headland path around töthe left. The raised mound beyond is the Charlestown shooting range. Next into a little copse, over a wooden bridge and a stile. Beyond the second stile is a sentry box by a flag pole.
When the red flags are flying, firing is in progress, and you must follow the directions of the sentry, keeping to the outside of the boundary markers to the next signpost i.e. turn inland (east) instead of continuing (south) on the coast path.
However, if no flags are flying, carry along a weIl defined path passing small posts beyond the range mound. Just after the red and white markers the path seems to drop down to the shoreline, or goes alternatively up to the left amongst the scrub and gorse. Take this left path, as unless the tide permits you will not get around the shoreline anyway.
Beyond the shooting range you get down to the shore again and pass a landing stage to reach a loop at the end of a gravel track. Beyond the next headland is Lynch Cove and Littlesea Holiday Park.
[If walking WESTWARDS at this point you will meet the sentry box and turn left (south), or if the red flag is flying, go ahead (west and inland).]

Here also the Fleet narrows down so that the inland share is at its nearest distance to Chesil Beach so far.
Leave the shooting range - signpost Weymouth 3 miles, over a timber bridge and on you go, with Abbotsbury indicated 8 miles behind. A word of warning here - the signposts on this section are none too accurate, usually indicating less than the actual mileage, often with the aggregate of the distances shown being inconsistent between signs. Further on at the next inlet carry along a grassy swathe (littered with holidaymakers in summer, deserted with your pick of the picnic benches if you are prepared to drink coffee in the teeth of the gale that crosses the cove in winter). Pass the caravans and beyond is a field with a clear path through to its base, however halfway up the field boundary is the coast path sign to Ferry Bridge (2.5 miles). This does not equate with the line of the path shown on the OS map, but follow it as indicated. The path shortly drops and turns to the east and up to the left is another sign to Ferry Bridge. Over a metal stile and up to the right - follow the field boundary towards a red brick building and at the signpost turn left.
Over a stile and walk sandwiched between a barbed wire fence and the high austere containment fence around the M.O.D. establishment. Continue around the perimeter fence, perhaps enjoying the array of giant Meccano sets displayed within. At a change indirection in the fence do not opt for the public footpath up the track to the left, but continue beyond the stile over to the right, with the coast path sign and more chain link fencing! Turn right at Gate No.1 down the tarmac road, left over the stile and onto the Goast path proper again.
At this point we were advised of an escaped prisoner from Portland Prison - all part of the unexpected events one meets along the South West Coast Path.

Here you are at the narrowest part of the Fleet and can clearly see the fishermen's shacks and moored boats, 'lerrets', on the Chesil Beach. This vast pebble bank, which dominates this section as far as Ferry Bridge, is up to sixty feet above sea level at its highest point and never wider than two hundred yards. It was formed some 80,000 years aga when sea levels were low. As a result of tidal action, the pebbles get progressively larger and less rounded the further one travels to the east. Exposed to Atlantic storms the beach has an appalling history of shipwrecks. "... blow wind, rise storm - ship ashore before morn..."(Moonfleet). It is dangerous to swim from this shore because of the strong undertow and is extremely laborious to walk on, but because of this there is a wonderful atmosphere of isolation on Chesil Beach.

Hardy's Jocelyn walked along the leeward sideof the bank and bad "...nothing but the frail bank of pebbles dividing them from the raging gulf without, and at every bang of the tide against it, the ground shook, the sh1ngle clashed and the spray rose vertically and was blown over their heads...“

Pass a boundary stone marking the western limits of the Borough of Weymouth and Melcombe Regis in 1933. At the next inlet cross over a stile and drop to the beach for a short while, then cross fence again at the next stile.
Weymouth, on the south side of the River Wey, and Melcombe Regis on the north were originally amalgamated in 1571. Melcombe Regis is remembered for being the town where the Black Death came to England in 1348 - few cases have been reported recently.
A lovely silhouette of a church with pines behind is to the north. Although you are passing the outskirts of urban Weymouth, thankfully the surroundings are still very much rural on the coast.

"...February 1758 - John Trenchard was sitting looking out to sea, the air soft and warm on a May day, and he would hear the drumming of turnips that Gaffer George was flinging into a cart on the hillside near half a mile away..."
Continue along the fence twixt fields and shore. Continue between a caravan site and the coast to drop down steps on the right and then past the Abbotsbury Oyster Factory - an opportunity to buy, fresh out the water, a succulent lunch.
The information board about Portland is interesting whether or not you intend to tread the paths of the rugged and unique coast path of the 'island'. Although not officially part of the South West Coast Path, the Isle of Portland is weIl worth a visit, if you have a da to spare. A. psth description for Portland has been produced by the Assoc1ation. Moves are 'afoot' with the relevant authorities to designate the coastal paths as part of the official National Trail.
The Isle of Portland, measuring some 4.5 miles long by 2 miles wide is an isthmus connected only to the mainland by the Chesil Bank mentioned earlier. It is part of Wessex heritage weIl documented in Hardy's novels. He said it "...stretched like the head of a bird into the English Channel...". Its great bulk will be on your south west horizon for many a mile to come.

At Ferry Bridge (pub to right) cross the busy A354 main and only road to Portland. Take the path slightly to the right opposite and bear left where it widens into all that is left of the former railway line to Portland. The definitve route continues on a concrete bed through a shallow cutting - however a better war is to be found on a narrow path along the seaward side on the top of the cutting.

WEYMOUTH CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY

At points along this section one used tohave good views of sea-going trials of Royal Navy vessels, at least until 1996 when the base closed. HMS Hood was scuttled across the entrance of the harbour to reinforce the area’s defences in World War 1.

Away ahead is the ruins of Sandsfoot Castle, perched on the land’s edge and on the left is the ‚back’ of Wyke Regis, a suburb of Weymouth.

60 yards beyond the end of the cutting be ar right down the embankment to pass in front of the sailing centre and onto a rough track leading up into Old Castle Road.

Sandsfoot Castle was built by Henry VIII in 1539 as part of defences of the principle south coast harbours. Now owned by Weymouth Corporation it is rather 'pretty' and useless except for the opportunity of lunching on the same spot as many soldiers of the realm must have done 400 years aga, with freshly fished seafood, washed down with a half of ale.
Continue along Old Castle Road and opposite the Castle Cove Sailing Club be ar right onto a tarmac footpath - Underbarn Walk - which later changes to gravel. (see below) At the end continue along the cliff edge of a grassed area of public open space to drop down to cross a road by a concrete footbridge. Continue forward and then on a choice of paths through Nothe Gardens to the fortifications of Nothe Fort on the next promontory.

*At the time of writing a section of Underbarn Walk is temporarily closed for remedial works following a landslip. If it is still closed continue along Old Castle Road and turn left into Belle Vue Road. At the end turn right into bincleaves Road and almost immediately join Redcliff View then cut across the grass to rejoin the Coast Path.

Nothe Fort, built in 1860 as part of the harbour defences, it hauses a twelve gun battery. It was later adapted for modern guns and remained in active service until 1956. Restored by Weymouth Civic Society, it now has 60,000 visitors annually. A comprehensive display of guns, period figures all set in real surroundings to display fort life, with sounds and smells of Victorian soldiers at gun drill, engineers' forge, and a World War 1 cookhouse! Open daily May to September from 10.30am . Tel:0305787243.
Past the fort bearing through 180 degrees again on a choice of paths along the other side of the Gardens with a good view of the Quay Ferry Terminal, and beyond the bay in the distance, are the Georgian terraces, lit by the afternoon sun if luck is with you. At a small car park and information boards drop down steps to the right to the waterside.

At one time the boat train ran from London Waterloo to Weymouth Quay with passengers and goods for the Channel Islands, and was a unique sight wending its way at a snails pace through the busy streets amid modern traffic. Alas only the railway lines remain today bedded in the tarmac.

A ferry may run across the harbour in the summer (Tel: 01305 770424), but alternatively, walk up to the bridge to cross into Weymouth Town.

The bridge was opened in 1930 by the Duke of York (later George VI) - the old wooden bridge bore the dismembered bodies of Monmouth's rebels, sentenced by Judge Jeffries in the Bloody Assizes in 1685, and there they remained until the King made a tour of the West Country in 1686!

After the remnoteness of the past for the last dozen or so miles, the lively activity along the quayside makes for a change, and the recreated shopping village at Brewers Quay (named after the Devenish family brewing complex) is worth visiting with its paved streets and court yards.

The 'Timewalk' (Tel:0130S 777622) journeys back through 600 years with smugglers and other local stories.

Turn right down steps and staying close to the quay edge will bring you to the opposite side of the ferry at the back of a terrace of hotels. Turn left by the car park to the Pavilion Complex onto the Esplnade to eventually pass the statue of George 111, and out onto the promenade with its splendid sweeping walk around the bar.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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