Great South West Walk

Thursday August 9

Section 15. WEYMOUTH TO LULWORTH. Miles: 11. Grading: Easy/moderate/strenuous

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at the Victoria Hotel, 56-57 The Esplanade, Weymouth, Dorset at 8.30am.
The walk will commence at 9.00am.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus Services

Trains

General Information
WEYMOUTH Tourist information; Toilets; Parking; Refreshments; Accommodation; Rail & bus stations.
OSMINGTON MILLS Toilets; parking; Refreshments.
RINGSTEAD Toilets (seasonal); Parking; Shop (seasonal).
LULWORTH Toilets; parking; Refreshments; Accoromodation; Youth Hostel.

The Route
Do not let the easy start to this day's walking fool you - there are a few tough climbs after White Nothe - but your perseverance will be rewarded with stunning views for most of the way. The change of geological strata is most interesting and you will pass the day retreading the paths used by smugglers and the 'preventy' men. The alternative inland route offering ridges and views across the heart of Hardy country, with the opportunity to bypass the urban sprawl of Weymouth, will be described in a separate booklet.

1. WEYMOUTHTO OSMINGTON MILLS (5 miles - 8km)
The long sweep of Weymouth seafront was as popular 200 years ago - George III would enter the sea in his bathing machine, surrounded by fiddlers playing 'God Save The King'. The bathing machine is still in the town museum and the king's statue forever looks ovar the Esplanade that he made so fashionable.

Follow the seafront,past the Jubilee Memorial clock tower and the elegant hotels and guesthouses, into Brunswick Terrace just past the Pier Bandstand building. (There is no longer a pier, just a skeletal landing stage) (Toilets)
It is believed that,theBlack Death entered England close to here in1348, but,today Weymouth has a clean and safe beach -but busy in season - and you will be pleased to leave all this for the peace of the coast path - but not until you get through Bowleaze Cove!

The next section can be skipped if you wish to catch a bus from the seafront to Overcombe Corner - but you will miss the sea wall, the like of which you have not walked along since Dawlish. Beyond the black, blue and white 'lockups' under the tennis courts (more toilets) the terrace continues into a promenade which extends to the sea wall and leads eventually to Overcombe in 1.5 miles.

Those without faint heart can carry along the top of the wall, rather than using the section of pavement that sandwiches you between it and the traffic on the busy A353road. Once committed to the top however, your only escape route is a vertical drop to the pavement or a trudge along the pebbly beach to Overcombe. The steps opposite the petrol station are the last chance to get on (or get off) the sea wall. A sea defence and road schema is due to be commenced along this section by the summer of 1995 so special care will be needed, arid there may be some minor diversions in place.

You may wish to visit the Weymouth Sea Life Centre, or to walk over to the Lodmoor Nature Reserve (stay on pavement). The Lodmoor RSPB Reserve is the expanse of salt marsh away to the north of the main road which appears to be lower than sea level, and provides an ideal haven for many birds. The Reserve is along the next road to the left, curiously close to the Household Waste Recycling Centre.

Leave the sea wall by the cafe at Overcombe and take the minor road, Bowleaze Coveway, forking to the right of the garage.

The continuation of a new section of promenade at this point is a dead-end unless you want to labour along the stony beach to Bowleaze Cove. After the pub, bear right across the grass, which the Borough Engineer has decreed will be mown but twice annually. Head for the top of the slope and look at the notice board further along.

The Weymouth anticline, a geological term for the sunken ground formation which extends from Portland across Weymouth Bay to the cliffs to the east, shows that subsequent erosion has removed the overlying strata exposing the old rocks below, many of which are rich in fossils. The geology was complicated by folding and faulting 110,000,000 years ago during the Cretaceous period. The upper strata exposed are the Portland Stone, Kimmeridge Clay, Corallian and the Oxford Clay. From here you can see the Isle of Portland, 1860 Nothe Fort and Gardens, Weymouth Esplanade and Lodmoor Reserve.

In the 'Trumpet Major' Thomas Hardy tells how Anne watches from this coast and sees the 'Victory' sail past with Bob on board. From this vantage point you too may see a variety of Royal Navy vessels entering arid leaving Portland Harbour (at least to 1996).

Turning directly ahead the nearest headland is Redcliff Point with the sweep of Bowleaze Cove hiding the exit of the River Jordan; the coast path can be very clearly seen beyond the white colonnade architecture of the Riviera Hotel and far in the distance is the outline of the huge limestone buttress of White Nothe.

Over to the left is signed the Jordan Hill Roman Temple, the remains of which were discovered in 1843 with an urn of Roman coins close by. lt is hoped that better signposting and waymarking will appear for this section as the way through Bowleaze Cove is unclear. Head towards the amusements complex and leave the grass for the pavement again; some vagueness about the definitive line of the path but at the time of writing (February 1995) leave the pavement just beyond the white gated vehicular access to the complex, over a stile and diagonally across the car park. Pass to the left of the helter skelter and the arcade, to the right of the next building and onto the cliff path which squeezes its war past the hotel.

First little climb beyond the holiday complex - with the option at the top of a small diversion around a short area of slipped land. If conditions are favourable pick a line through on a narrowing path on a mini ridge with a little scramble up the gravel at the end and up onto the grassy verge of the coast path proper.

From here there is an excellent, put last, view of the figure of King George III cut from the chalk above Sutton Poyntz, or as Hardy calied it - Overcombe - in the 'Trumpet Major' where John Loveday took Anne to see "...forty navvies at work removing the turf over half an acre..." - and in reality Anneka Rice has recently been challenged to do the same hut with more than forty boy scouts! This is the only chalk borge in the country to carry a figure, and there was a tremendous civil argument because it was depicting the king leaving Weymouth.

The peace of the path returns now - down a slope and over a stile through a hedge where a sign 'Danger - unsafe cliffs' greets you and head up the green swathe to round Redcliff Point. Drop down and find a small wooden bridge across a gully of gorse and brambLe and ahead onto another wide grassy path.

The path drops down past a chain link fence of the second holiday camp, marked Shortlake House on same maps and Holiday Centre on others. Over a gully and wooden bridge where steps lead down to the beach if you are due for a lunch or coffee break - but remember you have to come back up.

Climb on the path through the brambles and over a stile. Happily the long unsatisfactory inland diversion to Osmington Mills which started here has now been removed.

Follow the original path which is well walked in the grass 72 degrees up to a post on the horizon. Up the climb and on reaching the finger post the view opens up ahead to Osmington Mills and the ledges.

At low tide there may be evidence of wrecks to be seen. Again the bulk of White Nothe is becoming closer over the nearer headland of Bran Point still displaying its World War 11 mathine gun emplacements.

Through a cut of undergrowth, over a double stile and on the left a pond marked on the map while on the right more areas of slipped land.

Close to Black Head, 250' high, are ancient earthworks. Down into more dense undergrowth a marshy valley is crossed on timber planks. After crossing a stile, turn right at finger post and just before the village of Osmington Mills is a sign advising that the original coast path is closed ahead because of a landslip. A new signed path leaves the former route at this point, over a new stile to the left, and heading under the overhead power lines to meet the Inland Route at the bottom of the field just before it reaches a minor road. Turn right and follow this road down into Osmington Mills andto the coast.

Note: Osmington Mills is the last all-year-round point of refreshment and toilets before Lulworth. (In summer months Ringstead may be open).

In one guide book it is said that "..negotiating Osmington Mills may be challenging.." - no less we can assure you than negotiating with Dorset County Council for the new diversion to avoid the landslip.

However having reached the haven of the 13th century Smugglers Inn pause to imagine Pierre Latour, 'French Peter', plotting with the landlord while excisemen hid up the chimney....

It is at this point that 'Inland Route' walkers will smuggle themselves back onto the coast path proper.

OSMINGTON MILLS TO WHITE NOTHE
(2.5 miles - 4.5km)

Move off fram the inn onto the path back left of building and up a short climb into undergrowth and stiles; straight forward path eventually coming to the pill boxes at Bran Point. By now you should be ahle to see clearly the coastguard cottages of White Nothe ahead on the horizon.

Below the first of the pillboxes you may see the wreck of the 'Minx' at low tide stranded on the rocks since 1929.

Just after the next stile past the pillbox is a path leaving the coast path, up through a delightful mature wood and a previously splendid garden, to Upton village and the main road. (2 miles) Beyond a field, down a grove, across a footbridge with another path off to the north.

The next fenced field on the left will show mounds and hollows, all that is left of the medieval deserted village of Ringstead - probably wiped out by the Black Death, but legend blames pirates too.

After the plank bridge, across a small green onto a track and into the present day village of Ringstead. The path, despite the map, does not go through the gardens beyond the lifebelt stand. lnstead turn left up the track until the signpost turns you right just before the green corrugated toilet block (marked 'P' on the map in same guidebooks!). The shop in the timber building may be open. Signpost 'White Nothe 3 miles Coast Path.

At the end of the lane enterr the N.T. property of Ringstead Bay. Pass Shore Cottage, leaving the stile on the right, go up the track. Ignore the path that leaves to the left for Southdown Farm and continue on the coast path up into the copse. Two more stiles and two footbridges to cross and emerge onto Burning Cliff. Here a path descends to the pebble beach. On a hot day this is your last chance for a swim or beach picnic for a few hard miles.

Burning Cliff is so called because the rapid oxidization of iron pyrites caused the bituminous oil shale to spontaneously ignite in 1826 and burn for a year.

To the left is a small thatched cottage - continue up the overgrown tarmac track coming from this cottage and in 200 yards pause to visit the diminutive wooden church of St Catherine's by the Sea.

Look for the medieval tile which originally formed part of the floor of the Abbey Church of Milton and later got broken ang passed on as a relic to this chapel in 1906.

In 1887 Holworth House was bought by Robert Linklater as a holiday home and he was given permission to celebrate Holy Communion and conduct services there.

In the monastic days of Holworth, the parish had supplied the abbots of Milton with saltwater fish and Dr Linklater continued to send a token tithe of a plate of prawns to the vicar of Milton Abbey. In 1926 this little chapel was built by the widow of Dr. Linklater with money accruing from the sale of Holworth house. Hardy wrote that "..such a lonely spot with this undercliff sheltered by White Nothe naturally attracted smugglers who hid their goods in the neighbouring church of Owermoigne".

The small cliff edge churchyard with its wonderful view is exclusively for those in the parish of Holworth or those drowned at sea whose bodies are washed onto the beach from wrecks.

After the church fork right at the signpost onto a footpath through a smail copse of mainly pine trees; cross over the brick paved drive to Holworth House where the coast path is signposted for Lulworth. Up the slope and the cliffs of White Nothe are seen clearly ahead.. (Look back also for the entire postcard 'memory' of Weymouth Bay and Portland. Beyond in good visibility it is possible to see Golden Cap, Stile, and now for same real cliff top walking - fence to the left with nought but the cliff edge and the sea to the right. Pause to discern the flora, and if lucky the fauna, in the landslip below whilst approaching the attractive silhouette of the Coastguard cottages.

If heading eastwards it is a good few miles or more since walking some decent cliffs - and now you will be overwhelmed! The birdlife on this section is varied and our ornithological prowess revealed more than eight species of non- sparrow and an accomplished botanist will find in most months a dozen sort of non-buttercups.

3. WHITE NOTHE TO LULWORTH COVE (3.5miles - 5.5km)

Leave the N.T. White Nothe property just before the cottages where a stone marker invites you to decide between 'Lulworth 3.5 and Durdle Door 2.5, or to take the short path to White Nothe itself - too good an opportunity to miss. Past the little brick lookout and get your first real view of St Aldhelm's Head, a good days walk away beyond the Lulworth Ranges.

A good opportunity for a final view of Portland. Hardy said "It was a clear day with little wind stirring, and the view from the down, one of the most extensive in the county, was unclouded.

... The eye swept over the wave washed town, and the bay beyond, and the Isle with its pebble bank, lying on the sea to the left of these, like a great crouching animal tethered to the mainland. On the extreme east of the marine horizon St Aldhelm's Head closed the scene, the sea to the southward cf that point glaring like a mirror under the sun". We hope you have a memory of this section to match this.

Below you is the zig zag path of Faulkner's Moonfleet that "..was hut a thread against the cliff face - 'too narrow for me to carry thee' said Elzevir to young John".

Ahead, " ..a hummocky up-and-down line of cliffs, bays and hollows with the sea gleaming like a mackerel's back".

Sweep forward around the head1and path and pick out the chalk strata of Bindon Hill and Flowers Barrow but more importantly pick out this section of narrow path carefully - it can be thrilling with a following wind - the nearest you will get to an alpine path for a thousand miles or so.

Glimpse briefly down the vertical chalk wall and onto the untrodden beach below. White Nothe is over 500' high! Climb steadily up to rejoin the main path and the two obelisk markers on the left come into view. These are navigation markers and are meant to be lined up by those at sea. Rounding the headland you will find another stolle marker showing Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door straight ahead with Daggers Gate and Southdown to the left. This is an opportunity to get onto the high level route along the second field boundary from the coast. If you are tired or late this route is a less strenuous alternative to Lulworth.

Along this higher route are three stone sculptures commissioned by Common Ground. Tucked away in stone 'shrines' along the field edge, carved Purbeck stone shell shapes by Peter Randall Page complement the carved oak wheat-grains in a nearby field by Simon Thomas and recall that The Warren here was a Celtic field system.

The next section of coast path is stunning and breathtaking - literally - a switchback of climbs and dips with evocative names - Bat's Head, Swyre Head, Stratchy Bottom and finally Durdle Door. Past the obelisk another stone marker, with a mid route option through The Warren but the official coast path is naturally nearest to the sea. A long drop in contour glimpses another unreachable beach (without a baat that is) and swiftly comes a further climb up to Bat's Head.

A choice of three or four furrowed paths, unfortunately all with the same gradient - upwards - and finally the exhilaration of the lonely promontory of Bat's Head just off route and worthy of a visit. Continue, keeping closer to the cliff to see the birds wheeling below.

Evidence of rock falls on the beach will remind you of the folly of sitting under chalk cliffs! On the westerly beach like lines of old men stood herring gulls lacking only deck chairs to complete the scene while, above, the brown plumaged young practise their skills in the chalkface air currents. At sea The Cow and The Calf are close, with The Bull further towards the DurdIe rock mass.

Another climb (to Swyre Head) but the 'door' of Durdle is still not yet to be fully seen, but perhaps you are more excited about ,the summer ice cream van ahead than the view of Durdle Door?

Downhill to Scratchy Bottom where an inland path goes to Daggers Gate and the caravan parks but the coast path continues up, at first, green swathes towards Durdle Door and Lulworth in 1.5 miles.

A shorter climb this time and the 'door' comes into full vision and, as a bonus behind you, the door under Bat's Head also.

Durdle Door is a 200' high natural Portland Stone archway mass joined to the mainland by a narrow neck of Wealden Clay - it is a matter of speculation whether the sea or the thousands of feet will be responsible for eroding this in time and forming an island of Durdle Door. If swimming beware of fierce currents.

The many eroded paths further on herald the approach of tourist infestation. After the ascent from Durdle Door all eastbound walkers should look back for the final wonderful view of the last few miles of chalk roller coaster from White Nothe. At the crest of the rise, pause as soon as Lulworth Cove is revealed ahead for the first time and before the eyesore of the car park comes into view.

Hambury Tout, a tumulus, is 441 feet above sea level to your left. The cove is a naturally formed inlet fronted by hard Portland limestone, with the softer rocks behind washed away by the sea with remarkable symmetry. The ranges with uptipped strata are beyond the cove.

Down the lang chalk scar, the car park appears soon enough - disproportionately there always seems to be many more people toiling up and you may now feel smug that you have climbed much more than they have today. This self satisfaction will evaporate at the prospect of the next tough section across the ranges! (but that is probably for another day)

At the gate at the bottom of the chalk track the true line of the path turns right (not as the signpost) and crosses the grass upper cark to a stile and climbs up through a copse to join a lane. Turn left and follow towards the cove to the paths that leave to the right to view Stair Hole.

This is a collapsed cave with spectacular cliffs - the strata are folded into layers of rock known as Lulworth Crumple and distorted to this shape during the same period as the Alps were formed. If all this geologising is too much, head back to refreshment in the tourist trap - your last chance for stocking up on the route for many a mile to come.

The Lulworth Ranges ahead may be closed but are usually open at weekends and during school holidays, if in doubt 'phone 01929 462721.

The Lulworth Cove Heritage Centre with exhibitions of smuggling, bygones,and local crafts is now open..
Lulworth was an important centre for smuggling in the early 18th century and a notorious landing spot with silks, laces, sherry, rum and, of course, brandy being the spoils. The local poverty and the temptation of contraband and its rewards affected even those in high office and responsible positions - the law officers supplemented their poor pay, and even the clergy succumbed to the promise of a keg. The 1736 Smuggling Act imposed severe sentences on those caught by the vigilance of the 'preventy men', who carried 'cutlass and pistol and a small rocket which had a blue light and which was fired'even if they heard a boat rowing in the dark'.

"Five and twenty ponies, trotting through the dark, Brandy for the parson, baccy for the clerk, Laces for a lady, letters for a spy, Watch the wall my darling as the Gentlemen go by."

Continue on the coast path which takes the only road down through the village to the Cove. The next section of path leaves up the steps behind the cafe at the back of the beach.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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