Great South West Walk

Tuesday August 14

Section 22.CROYDE TO BARNSTAPLE Miles: 14.4. Grading: Easy

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at the National Trust car park Croyde Bay/Baggy Point at 1pm.
The walk will commence at 1.30pm.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus Services
The 308 service runs from Georgeham to Barnstaple via Croyde, Saunton and Braunton. You should obtain confirmation and further information and confirmation of bus services by contacting Traveline on 0870 608 2608 www.traveline.org.uk

Trains
The Tarka Line runs between Barnstaple and Exeter St David’s, enabling connection to the main Great Western Line, and thus the rest of the country. For further information, contact National Rail Enquiries on 08457 484950.

Maps
Landranger Series (scale 1:50 000) Number 180, Barnstaple and Ilfracombe.
Explorer Series (scale 1:25 000) Number 139, Bideford, Ilfracombe & Barnstaple.
Outdoor Leisure Series 9 - Exmoor (scale 1:25 000)

General Information
Croyde Bay: accommodation, shops, pubs, cafés, car parks, toilets, public telephone and post office.
Saunton Sands: café (seasonal) and snack bar (seasonal and sometimes during the winter when catering for surfers).
Braunton: accommodation, shops (including a pharmacy), pubs, restaurants, cafés, car park (free), toilets, telephone and post office.
Barnstaple: accommodation, cafés, pubs, shops (including a chemist), post office, parking, public telephones and toilets.

Taxis
Barnstaple: Numerous taxi services available.
Braunton: Braunton Taxi Service (01271 815597), T & T Taxis (01271 816882) G R Taxi Service (01271 815296)

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Braunton – The Bakehouse Centre, Caen Street, Braunton, EX33 1AA. Tel: 01271 816400.
Barnstaple – 36, Boutport Street, Barnstaple, EX31 1RX. Tel: 01271 375000.

The Route
This is a very easy stretch of the coast path to walk, with only one sharp climb at Saunton Down (and a steep climb near Saunton Sands Hotel if alternative route 2 is taken – see later).

You leave behind the high cliffs of Exmoor and Baggy Point, to walk over Braunton Burrows, and by the side of the River Taw.

Some walkers might find this section of the coast path tedious and not very exciting. But do give it some consideration, there are some fine views across the estuary, and plenty of wild life to look for. There is, however, a bus service from near the Saunton Sands Hotel into Barnstaple.

CROYDE BAY

Croyde has some features worth mentioning - a fine, safe, clean surfing beach; a huge holiday camp and The Thatch Inn which serves some excellent bar meals and real ale. The village gets very busy during the main holiday season.

CROYDE BAY TO BARNSTAPLE

Since Lynmouth the coast path route is shared with the northern circuit of the Tarka Trail. The waymark of this trail is a stylised otter paw, in the centre of an arrow.

The path turns right off the Middleborough Road, passing a cafe and toilets to reach the beach. Turn left (south) and the route is along the top of the beach and is well waymarked. Walkers with dogs must keep to this route, or they will incur the wrath of the beach guards. This is a private beach, owned by the Ruda holiday complex, which spends much time and money in keeping the beach clean.

At the southern end of the beach the path climbs up some steps to gain the top of the low cliffs of Saunton Down end. After a short distance the path leaves the cliff edge and a sharp climb brings you to the B3231 road. This is a very busy road so take great care as you cross over the road is necessary at this point.

Turn left and walk downhill a short way to reach some stone steps. After a short climb, the path contours round Saunton Down, parallel to and above the road.

From this path there are some spectacular views down the length of Saunton Sands, and if clear, across the estuary to Appledore. On the hillside to the left can be seen some ancient cultivation terraces.

The large flat-roofed building is the five-star Saunton Sands Hotel owned by the Brend family. Wonderful food; they welcome all, including walkers.
At this point you are confronted with three routes from which to choose:-

The official route crosses the B3231 road and passes around the hotel and descends to the large Saunton Sands car park. (There is a café here open seasonally and also a snack bar often open out of season – mainly for

the surfing fraternity.) Continue in an easterly direction across the car park, up the road a short distance and pick up a sandy lane, on the right, near some holiday chalets. At the end of this lane you return to the B3231 road.

Take care now as there is 400 yards (365 m) of that road to walk along until a red brick/part rendered house is reached. Turn right here. The path then wanders around the landward side and partially through the golf course. It is well marked, having recently been re-signed.

2. This route does not involve initially crossing the B3231. At the bottom of the slope before the road take off left onto a public footpath. You climb steeply with the path, eventually bearing right at the top of the hill. It passes near to Saunton Court at the bottom of the hill and continues on to the B3231 road opposite the red brick/part rendered house. You then follow the official route as described in Option 1 above.

This diversion eliminates 400 yards (365 m) of the very dangerous road walking, but it is a steep climb. This is the route favoured by the Coast and Countryside Service, but it is currently seeking alternatives for a better aligned path between Saunton Sands car park and the golf course.

3. This third choice is probably the one preferred by most walkers. Cross over the B3231. Pass around the Saunton Sands Hotel and descend to the large car park. Walk south along the beach via Airy Point to Crow Point. After 3.5 miles (5.5 km) along the beach just after the groyne watch out for a slatted wooden cat walk on your left. This is your beach exit so walk along this to Broad Sands. As you do so you will have regained the official route.

The official route after options 1 and 2 now enters the Braunton Burrows nature reserve. Once a National Nature Reserve, it is owned by the Christie Estate, but managed by the Ministry of Defence.

BRAUNTON BURROWS

These burrows are renowned for their great wealth and diversity of their plant life and over 400 species of flowering plants have been recorded here.

Spring and early summer are the best times to visit. The intense purple of the vipers bugloss and the yellow of the trefoils are difficult to describe. Skylarks are still fairly common with whitethroats and stonechats. The burrows have a fine butterfly population with grizzled skipper, marbled white and green hairstreak to name a few.

Shortly before arriving at the Burrows car park the path has been diverted south and then joins up with the so called American Road to Broad Sands.

This road is not a particularly interesting one and in rather a poor state of repair, although North Devon Coast and Countryside Service is carrying out some repair work thereon. A footpath running parallel to this road is still marked on the definitive OS map, but it has been lost on the ground.

During the 1939-45 war the Burrows were used by the Americans as a battle training area. The officers’ mess was at the Hotel. The Burrows are still used by the Royal Marines based at Chivenor for live firing, but this does not affect the route of the path.

Arriving at Broad Sands, either by the Burrows walk or the beach walk (Option 3), the path becomes a little vague, but keep the estuary on your right hand side and you cannot go wrong. Head for the white cottage on the estuary side.

This cottage was built for the marsh keeper, and was called Crow Beach House. It also went under the name of Ferry House, referring to the ferry across the estuary to Appledore, which was still in operation in 1939, under the strange name of the Pulchroffe ferry. There are plans to reinstate this ferry during the summer months.

The route now follows the estuary side on top of the Great Sea Bank. Braunton marsh was drained in 1811 and is managed by the Marsh Commissioners. The path keeps to the top of this sea wall all the way to Velator.

If you wish to visit Braunton turn left at Velator and walk along the old railway track into the village.

BRAUNTON

Braunton was originally a Celtic settlement by the river Caen. In 1811 its population was 1200, but now it stands at over 10 000. It has some light industry but is mainly a dormitory village for Barnstaple.

For the walker it has the following attractions: plenty of accommodation, a fine fish and chip shop (Squires), the Williams Arms (good bar meals) and a bus service into Barnstaple.

Returning to Velator, the route now follows the old Barnstaple to Ilfracombe railway track closed in 1970 into Barnstaple.

In the summer months the walker has a problem on this section of the path. Not only is it the South West Coast Path, it is also a cycle track and is used by many hundreds of cyclists. Few bikes seems to have any audible means of warning you of their approach, so walking can become hazardous. After leaving Velator you will pass the old railway station at Wrafton (now a private house).

The next mile is rather uninteresting, enclosed in a chain link fence as it passes the Chivenor Royal Marine base .Relief is at hand and you suddenly emerge onto the estuary side. When the tide is high it presents a very fine picture and in the winter months there are many ducks and waders to observe.

After Heanton Court, a possible place for refreshments, the path soon loses its scenic quality. It passes a sewage treatment works and an industrial estate and then the old Barnstaple railway station. You then pass a new recreation area with seating – a good place for a break. Continue along beside the river to the Long Bridge. Then onto the next stage of the coast path to Bideford and Westward Ho!

BARNSTAPLE

Its importance grew during the mid 20th century, as a west coast port. Ships from the town fought in many of the great sea battles, including the siege of Calais and the defeat of the Spanish Armada by Drake. In addition the port was important for commercial reasons. North Devon had a flourishing woollen industry and traded with many parts of the world. Eventually though the woollen industry moved north and the port lost a large part of its trade. It still has its famous pannier market which first started in 1855. The name came from the baskets in which the produce was brought to the market.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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