Great South West Walk

Sunday August 19

Section 29. TINTAGEL TO PORT ISAAC. Miles: 8. Grading: Severe

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at Tintagel Castle at 8am.
The walk will commence at 8.30am.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus Services
Services to this part of the Coast Path are sparse, but for full details, contact First Western National on 01208 79898.

Trains
There are no railway links to this part of the path. However, by using buses, it is possible to link up with Bodmin Parkway Station, and, therefore, the main Great Western Line.

Maps
Landranger Series (scale 1:50 000) Number 200 - Newquay and Bodmin.
Explorer Series (scale 1:25 000) Numbers 109 - Bodmin Moor and 111 - Bude, Boscastle and Tintagel.

General Information
TINTAGEL - accommodation, cafes, pubs, shops (including a chemist), toilets and parking.
TREBARWITH STRAND - limited accommodation, pub, a couple of shops, some parking, and toilets.
PORT ISAAC - Accommodation, pubs, shops (including a chemist), toilets and parking.

TAXIS
Camel Taxis – 01840 213234 and 01840 212963
Port Isaac Taxis – 01208 880559

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES
The main, all year round TIC for this area is situated off the path in Bodmin. Their address is Shire House, Mount Folly, Bodmin (tel: 01208 76616). There is a Visitors’ Centre in Tintagel which is open all year round, seven days a week, but it is open for only limited hours out of season (tel: 01840 779084).

The Route
This is a section with some very fine coastal walking. Although you will pass through magnificent scenery, parts of this section are very tough: the descents to the valley streams and up again on the other side are about the steepest on the whole Coast Path. Please be warned that the stretch from Trebarwith Strand is surprisingly deserted and some of it is tough going. Do not leave Trebarwith late or unprepared: you have been warned! Public transport here is rare, and there are no buses running parallel to the coast. If you are walking this section as a day walk rather than walking the Path as a whole, your best option would be to use a taxi.

TINTAGEL

Although the town itself is not on the Coast Path, many will wish to visit it. The commercialism of Tintagel may jar somewhat, but there is a selection of shops, and, like many tourist honey-pots, the Castle, which is the main attraction, is best viewed from the Coast Path either early in the morning, or in the evening when the coachloads have disappeared.

The path up from the castle to the town is uninteresting with nothing to commend it. It joins the main street just a little below the Old Post Office.

This building’s title comes from its former use from 1844 to 1892 as a letter receiving office. It was then sold, luckily to folk with preservation in mind, and later acquired by the National Trust, which still owns it today. As a building it predates by centuries its use as a post office. It is really a fourteenth century building in the style of a medieval manor house. Whatever else might be viewed in Tintagel, do see this.

The Wharnecliffe Arms Hotel is named after the Wharnecliffs, who were at one time the most important land-owning family in Tintagel. In front of the hotel is a much-battered ancient inscribed stone cross. Its dedication, translated from the Latin, reads ‘Aeinat made this cross for the sake of his soul’. We know the cross was once used as a gatepost. We also know that Aeinat was a Saxon name, but apart from that we can only conjecture at a history centuries older than that of the Old Post Office.

On the left shortly after the Wharnecliffe Arms is the so-called King Arthur’s Hall. This will make anyone in line with modern historical thought shudder. However, we do not advise that it should be shunned, because it has a splendid collection of Cornish rocks and minerals. The rock in any area is one of the principal determinants of the scenery, and this will be the best opportunity in Cornwall for seeing specimens of the enormous variety through which one passes.

Instead of returning to the coast by the Castle path, it is possible to take the lane a little below the Old Post Office, signposted ‘St Materiana’s Church, Glebe Cliff’: this is much pleasanter and more interesting. The path goes up beyond the inland part of the Castle, past St Materiana’s Church on its exposed site.

TINTAGEL CASTLE

If you have time, go and have a look at the Castle, which is interesting. Its habitation was based on the spring found unexpectedly on nearly the highest point of The Island. Originally it was not a castle at all but a Celtic monastery. In fact it was a monastery for far longer than it was an effective castle. Perhaps to modern eyes the most surprising thing about it is that anyone should try to build a castle in two such distinct sections. However, the site has suffered from coastal erosion, and it was joined at one time, then later there was a small gap linked by a drawbridge, but today they are completely separate. The Castle has no history of importance, except that in its later days, when it became a prison, it had at least one very distinguished prisoner - Warwick the Kingmaker.

Follow the waymarked path which ascends to the left of the English Heritage building. Having reached the cliff top and Tintagel Church, proceed along the path in the direction of Trebarwith Strand. There is a choice of paths here, and the one nearest the sea gives the better views.

ST MATERIANA’S CHURCH

The Church has a double Cornish stile at its entrance. Unfortunately these stiles are scarce on the Coast Path, but once they have been seen there will not be any surprise at the evolution of the modern cattle grid. Inside the church gate, to the right, is perhaps the saddest thing there; it is a bare wooden cross and life belt from the ‘Iota’. What might have saved life marks the grave of the fourteen-year-old cabin boy, Catanese Domenico. The church is the oldest in Cornwall, still in regular active use, and it has a tranquillity all of its own.

Pass the Youth Hostel, where again you have a choice. The seaward path gives you the views, but if you are not so surefooted, it is much better to take the inland path. Tintagel Youth Hostel is interesting, being an imaginative adaptation of old quarry offices. This is in a fantastic setting and a wonderful place to watch summer sunsets on a clear evening.

From Penhallic Point there are good long-distance views once again, and Gull Rock off Trebarwith which will remain in sight for such a long time comes into view, as does another whole sweep of the coast. This section is interspersed with disused coastal quarries; there is a particularly spectacular rock pillar left standing in one quarry behind Hole Beach. Some of these quarries were still worked well within living memory. Note the square working tunnels in some of the vertical faces. The work was incredibly hard, and in places they had to work with the tides, sometimes starting work at four in the morning.

As the path drops to Trebarwith Strand there are pleasant views to seaward, and Gull Rock looks impressive. Surprisingly too, after so much uninviting coastline there is a fair place to bathe at low tide. However, before descending, look inland as there is the chimney of an old Cornish engine house. Later, there will be many more of them, but this is the first visible from the path. They were usually associated with mining, but here they were used in the local slate quarries.

At times there were three quarries in the valley close to Trewarmett. The earliest was opened in 1823 and the last closed in 1928. The one with the engine house still standing was called the Prince of Wales.

TREBARWITH STRAND

Whilst at Trebarwith Strand give good thought to accommodation, as a long and surprisingly deserted stretch is ahead. There is a good chance to find lodging at Trebarwith itself, but it would be far better, if necessary, to return to Tintagel for a certain bed than to press on regardless.

There is an excellent pub here, the Port William, and it is an ideal place for refreshment before the long, hard stretch before you. Trebarwith is an impressive sight in a gale, especially at high tide; the rollers crash on the shelving rock with tremendous force. Strange as it may seem, slate boats were loaded here. The boats had to edge cautiously round the Gull Rock to get in close and were always likely to be caught if a sudden storm blew up. There are records of a sloop from Boscastle called ‘Jane’ wrecked here in June 1844, and the ketch ‘Resolution’ of Padstow suffered a similar fate in February 1888. A sorry business altogether about which to raise a smile, but one vessel from Clovelly, engaged in the slate trade and wrecked off Tintagel, was actually called ‘The Narrow Escape’.

The path climbs steeply from Trebarwith Strand, and climb it does: there are not only the incline stretches - at the last count there were 199 steps as well! The path goes diagonally across Dennis Point.

Port William, or the New Harbour as it is more often called, can be seen from here. It was used for the shipping of slate from the quarry at Hole Beach that you passed before leaving Tintagel. The ketches trading here were mostly from Appledore and Bideford and they brought in coal, lime and grain, as well as taking out the slate.

On reaching a stile with a gate alongside, a waymark sign ‘Backways’ leads you steeply downhill. The waymarked path is now badly eroded so take care during the descent, especially if conditions are wet underfoot.

Backways Cove was evidently a busy place at one time but it is very peaceful today. The ascent up the southern side is not as steep as it used to be but we would still recommend a pause for a backward glance.

Having crossed the two bridges, climb uphill, once more following the well waymarked footpath: you are now in for a treat as not only are there wonderful views, but the way ahead is fairly level!

You will pass the site of an old wartime Fleet Air Arm Station at Treligga, which was a satellite of St Merryn and named Vulture II. It was unique in being staffed by 20 Wrens, who controlled a range used by aircraft in air to sea firing.

Luckily, Start Point at the top is another good viewpoint to justify a halt. Port Isaac shows up clearly ahead and the Mouls and Newland inlets can both be seen off the headland of Rumps Point. The view inland is interesting - about 120 degrees for compass carriers is a spoil tip of the Delabole quarries only 2 miles (3 km) away, but we will say something about them later. On leaving Start Point you pass a small rash of tumuli. The walking is pleasant and on a high level. You should enjoy this section because once, owing to military activities, the path was to be routed inland here. It would have gone via Trebarwith, not the Strand, and Treligga villages, returning to the coast beyond The Mountain.

Do not be afraid of The Mountain. How it came by its title we do not know, but it presents no problems to the walker. In the valley of The Mountain is a footpath crossroads, and the coast path is straight ahead, not right as might be thought. The right hand turning goes down to Tregardock Beach, but however hot, do not turn aside for a swim if the tide is in. Whilst at low tide there is a splendid stretch of sand, at high tide there is literally none at all.

The left turn at the crossroads goes inland through Tregardock to Delabole, and if there is plenty of time this is a diversion which can be made with advantage. Just before Delabole on the left there is an interesting wide old drift lane once used for driving cattle.

DELABOLE

To the Cornish, Delabole means slate, much of it having a characteristic reddish brown tinge. In their heyday in the middle of the 19th century over 1000 men were working in the quarries in the vicinity, over 500 being employed in the largest of the quarries. The slate industry has a history going back over six centuries. The first lease is dated 1396 in the reign of Richard II, the last of the Plantagenets, but it was not until the Industrial Revolution that it became a large scale operation.

In the 1880s Delabole is recorded as producing 1000 tons of slate a day, and slate was exported to the Continent and even to the New World. The principal ports used were Port Gaverne in the summertime and Boscastle, because it was more sheltered, in the winter, but the coming of the North Cornwall railway in 1893 caused the demise of the local slate ports. An industry existing in one place for over 600 years is certainly exceptional and the traditional slate sizes had curious names such as Ladies and Countesses. The main pit is 1 1/4 miles (2 km) in circumference and 400 feet (122 m) deep, and is claimed with some justification to be the biggest manmade hole in England. It is now open to visitors in the summertime.

The path above Tregardock Cliff is again pleasantly flat. Crossing a bridge over a grassy patch, continue on the coast path and pass through a gate to begin the descent from Jacket’s Point, again taking care in wet conditions. The steep valley after Jacket’s Point is a lovely place and there is a fine picnic spot on the rocks to the right of the path looking at the waterfall. There is again a steep climb, but it is incredible to think that it is less fierce than it used to be.

The cliffs of Dannonchapel were the scenes of two spheres of activity; first as a quarry and much more recently as a coastguard lookout, and the building used for the latter purpose is still in fair repair.

After Delabole Point the path again descends into another valley. On the way up the other side, you will pass a disused tunnel. This is known locally as the Donkey Hole, because it was once used by donkeys bringing up slates from the beach quarry below. Formerly it was quite possible for an adventurous person to crawl through this hole to Barrett’s Zawn, but the cliff face here is unstable, and the occurrence of rock falls means that we no longer recommend this diversion. You pass St Illickswell Gug, gug being the local name for cave.

From Tresungers Point onwards the view forward is dominated by Port Isaac, but later the approach to this lovely village is less imposing than the parting view. Here, the path really is on the cliff edge for a while, so it is important to watch where you are putting your feet.

The official path now joins the road and then leaves the coast to go down directly to Port Gaverne. If not overcome by thirst, the better walk is round the last headland. Simply turn right on the road and go over a stone stile with a notice ‘Danger unfenced cliff’: this is a public pleasure ground with seats! Where the path turns inland take the left fork, not the right fork which is sunken. However, as you approach the road again take the right fork to go down steps on to the road. (If the tide is really out the lower sunken path leads down to a fascinating rough-hewn slate quay with bollards, and then down to the beach itself.)

If thirst is a consideration, the walker may be more inclined to bless rather than curse the Civil Service mind that sanctioned this deviation inland. This is because the path goes straight down to the first licensed premises for many a mile! Incidentally, this is an inn which also has an attraction for teetotallers; it has a really magnificent inn sign which is a reminder that Port Gaverne was once a very different place.

PORT GAVERNE

The Port used to have a pier and great quantities of Delabole slate were put on board ship and sent to sea. It is said that as many as 100 horses at a time would be on the beach. Because of their brittle nature, the slates were passed from hand to hand and packed in the ships’ holds with hay between to minimise breakage. The remains of the fish cellar show that this was not the only activity carried on at Port Gaverne. This cellar is now owned by the National Trust but it is not open to the public. It would be more interesting if the Trust had restored this example possibly showing how, and for what purpose, it was used.

The path departs from Port Gaverne by the road but you can leave it for a while by a pavement on the right. Turn right just before the public toilets at the beginning of the car park. This is the official coast path and a better route than up the road. Furthermore, you will still pass most of the shops and some cafes. The path rejoins the road and you descend into the older part of Port Isaac.

PORT ISAAC

Port Isaac’s name probably comes from a Cornish word ‘isic’ meaning corn. It used to be a fishing port but there is very little of that done here now; just sufficient to give the authentic smell!

As you descend into Port Isaac, note the name Canadian Terrace on your left. This is so-called because of a Port Isaac man who emigrated to Canada in the early years of the 19th century and made his fortune. Upon his return he built these properties and named them after the country which had helped him to generate his new-found wealth; this probably made him Port Isaac’s first speculative builder.

The old port is very much huddled around the inlet of the sea. Consequently the streets and alleys (one is nicknamed Squeeze-ee-belly Alley!) are narrow and space generally is restricted; so restricted in fact that the central car park is on the harbour beach. Because parking here is dependent on the tide, it does at least mean that this car park is not much overburdened by long-stay vehicles!

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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