Great South West Walk

Sunday August 19

Section 30. PORT ISAAC TO PADSTOW. Miles: 11.7. Grading: Strenuous

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at The Crow’s Nest in Port Issac at 1pm.
The walk will start at 1.30pm.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

BUS SERVICES
At the time of writing, there are all year services running from Bodmin Parkway station to Wadebridge (First service 55), then catch the Western Greyhound Service (service 524) to Port Isaac. The 55 returns from Padstow to Bodmin Parkway station.
Confirmation of all buses can be obtained from traveline on 0870 608 2608 www.traveline.org.uk and details about the Western Greyhound service can be obtained on 01637 871871.

TRAINS
The nearest railway station to this area is Bodmin Parkway, which is on the Penzance to Paddington main line, so you can reach the rest of the country from here. You can catch a bus from outside the station to the start of this section. For more information, please telephone National Rail Enquiries on 08457 484950.

FERRY
The Rock/Padstow Ferry (Telephone: 01841 532239, Fax: 01841 533346,
e-mail: padstowharbour@compuserve.com and web: www.padstow/harbour.co.uk) currently runs all year at 20 minute intervals, but there is no Sunday service from the last Sunday in October to the 1st Sunday in April (or Easter if earlier).
We urge you to contact the ferry operator direct if you are relying on this service, particularly if you are anticipating a fairly late finish and need to confirm the time of its last run.

GENERAL
PORT ISAAC: accommodation, pubs, café, car park, small shops, toilets and public telephone.
PORT QUIN: car park and tap with drinking water.
NEW POLZEATH: car park and toilets.
POLZEATH: accommodation, shops, post office, pubs, car park, toilets and public telephone.
ROCK: some accommodation, shops, refreshments, pubs, car park, toilets and public telephone.
PADSTOW: accommodation, shops (including a chemist), refreshments, pubs, car park, toilets and public telephone.

MAPS
Ordnance Survey Landranger series (scale 1:50 000) Number 200, Newquay and Bodmin.
Ordnance Survey Explorer series (scale 1:25 000) Number 106, Newquay, Padstow, Wadebridge and Port Isaac.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Red Brick Building, North Quay, Padstow, PL28 8AF. Tel: 01841 533449.

The Route
PORT ISAAC TO POLZEATH

Annual Guide Section 17 (8.8 miles – 14.2 km) Grading: Strenuous

The route leaving the harbour starts up a little lane but soon diverts off onto a path proper. This passes guest houses on the left and on the right an area once intensively cultivated, and comes out into fields from which there are good views down and back into the harbour and village. In fact the last backward view of Port Isaac is probably the best – this is not meant to be unkind, but you’ll see what we mean! The path goes out round Lobber Point and then comes back again to the shallow but rocky Pine Haven. There is a small waterfall here and it is surprisingly wild and rural compared with the last two inlets left behind.

The path climbs steeply up the other side passing round the edges of some fields before cutting off Varley Head along the line of an old wall. For a while

it goes along a sunken section behind a wall but then comes up dramatically on Scarnor Point above the rocky Downgate Cove.

Those who do not know the history of this section of coast path may be surprised at the wire-topped, expensive wooden fence. Cornwall County Council bitterly opposed, ostensibly on the grounds of expense, the coast path here, which in fact because of the way it was funded would have cost them nothing. However the Ramblers’ Association, South West Coast Path Association and the Countryside Commission (now Agency) won the day at the hard-fought Public Inquiry. The path, you will agree, is magnificent.

The abiding impression on Kellan Head is gorse - lots of it. There is a country saying at least six centuries old – ‘when gorse is out of bloom, kissing is out of season’,
because it flowers all year round (the trick is that there are many similar species of gorse, all with different flowering times).

There used to be a little coastguard hut which was a sure indication of a good view, and although the hut has gone the view is still there. Looking westwards and seaward the island rock is the Mouls, and the headland immediately to the landward of the Mouls is the Rumps. Looking further inland there is a tower; this is on Stepper Point on the farther side of the Camel, and although that sight should inspire you to stride ahead, the sight on rounding the rest of Kellan Head will almost certainly cause a
further pause to have a first quick view of Doyden Castle.

PORT QUIN

The path now goes back to Port Quin: look for interest but not for sustenance - it is surprisingly uncommercial, however, there is a drinking water tap available. On reaching the road, turn left, and divert about 100 yards (90 m) up it. Large holes will be noticed in the hedge beneath the ivy and bushes and looking closer it can be seen that they are abandoned cottages.

There is more than one story to account for these. One tale concerns the press gang and another concerns fishing on the Sabbath, but both versions end with a storm at sea and the widows and orphans leaving their homes. There is no evidence to substantiate either story, and it is more likely that economic forces were at work, and that the rise of Port Isaac was the downfall of Port Quin. Certainly they did fish here and the evidence is on the left very soon after the diversion to see the ruins. What is now a block of National Trust holiday accommodation was once a sizeable fish cellar.

Turn off the road through a stile to enter National Trust property. The Trust improved the path meaning that there is now a little less road walking and more path giving views of the sea.

If you have time there is a pleasant walk out to the point to see the little folly castle on its dramatic setting. It was built in about 1830. The castle itself is not open to visitors - it is a National Trust holiday let, but the view just beyond and above is most rewarding. Tradition has it that the castle was once used for parties of the wilder sort, gambling and drinking, though it would seem to be the wrong sort of place to be under the influence! Doyden House, the big house just inland, is known locally as the Prison Governor's House. This is not because there was a prison here, but a retired governor came there to live. He should certainly have found a difference in the view from Wandsworth.

West of Doyden are some old mine shafts, probably for antimony, one of which goes down to sea level, and another is even deeper. Those with inquiring minds may like to know that antimony has long been used as a yellow colourant in stained glass and pottery. It is also used as a mordant (fixative) in dyeing, and is also used in many alloys and more recently for vulcanising rubber.

It was on the coast here in December 1979 that the Greek ship 'Skopelus Sky' came ashore. She carried a cargo of oil drums and all the crew were saved by helicopter. You will be lucky though to see any remains - most of the vessel was cut up and recovered as scrap metal. Just behind Pennywilgie Point and beside the path is an adit in which one of the varieties of luminous moss has been found.

LUNDY HOLE

The most spectacular thing hereabouts is Lundy Hole. Do not miss this as there are actually two footpaths after Lundy Beach. Fork right just after the National Trust sign to keep on the seaward one and look for the short stretch of low wall on your right. It is only a few yards from the path, but people have been known to walk right by it and never know it was there. (Those going east dropping down from Carnweather Point join another path, within a few yards fork left and watch for the wall, of course now on the left.)

Carnweather Point is another compulsive stop for viewing. After recovering from the shock of the intrusive bungaloid growth at Polzeath, you see Stepper Point, now much closer, and beyond it Trevose head with its lighthouse.

Com Head is another good viewpoint: it is not very high but after a period of easy
going it seems steep.

The feature dominating the view forward is the Mouls: this island rock is more sizeable than most we have seen so far, and to anyone who knows Torbay, its cone shape is very reminiscent of Thatcher Rock. The Mouls was an island home of the puffin, the so-called ‘parrot of the sea’, but sadly their numbers have declined recently.

THE RUMPS

The Rumps itself is officially beyond the path so purists may hurry on regardless, but those on pleasure bent are advised to make the detour out around both its headlands. There have been a number a iron age cliff castles on our route, and usually there has been little evidence to the unpractised eye to indicate their presence. This one is
different, as the ramparts and ditches across the neck of the land are clearly defined, and in days when defensibility was an essential in home choice, this must have been a very desirable residence! The Cornwall Archaeological Society carried out an
extensive dig here over a period of five years in the 1960s. It is said that Lawrence Binyon had the inspiration for his poem ‘To the Fallen’ in this very area.

A path, indistinct in some places, goes round the headland. The eastern point makes an excellent picnic spot looking directly across to the Mouls with its teeming bird life. The northern side has its evocatively named Sevensouls Cove, and Rumps Point
tself - the western end is the highest part. The name Guglane comes from the Cornish for cave, and the cave is still there to prove it.

Pentire Point is a really magnificent viewpoint: possibly the best on the whole South West Coast Path. Those who started at the Cornish border will have seen a
succession of good coast and seascapes, but this is the first time that there has been such an extensive arc of view over such a long distance. So, unless the rain is beating down your neck and low cloud is blanketing the visibility as well, sit down and have a good look round.

Behind is Newland, south-eastwards is Polzeath and its beach; due south is the
extensive estuary of the River Camel with part of the Doom Bar showing beyond
Trebetherick. Just to the right of the disused railway viaduct can be seen the rooftops of Padstow itself; seaward is the sand of Harbour Cove. Stepper Point, looking most impressive, stands opposite; beyond Stepper are the sands of Harlyn Bay and Trevose Head and its lighthouse and, finally, out to sea, are Gulland Rock and the Quies.

Pentire itself is of volcanic origin and the Celtic meaning of its name is, not
surprisingly, headland. Be thankful too that the National Trust acquired this land just in time to prevent its 'development' into building sites.

Regret at leaving Pentire will be tempered by the pleasant downhill path to Hayle Bay. On windy days the incoming breakers are a fine sight indeed. Hayle means salt water estuary and we shall come across the name again. Near here were silver-lead mines, and the ore was shipped in barges across to the port of Padstow.

The path goes down to pass behind Pentireglaze Haven and comes up to the road where you have to turn right. On your left is the quaintly named Baby Beach Lane. New Polzeath has, at the time of writing, the distinction of being about the only resort in Cornwall not to have a café. Faint not! Polzeath ahead can jar after the solitude, but at least it provides plenty of refreshment.

POLZEATH

Polzeath, to give it a plus point, has a magnificent, safe beach - a good place for a dip. The Greenaway has been spoilt by becoming a massive car park in summer.

Watch for the start of the path a little way up the hill after crossing the bridge in Polzeath.

POLZEATH TO PADSTOW

Annual Guide Section 18 (2.9 miles – 4.7 km) Grading: Easy

Trebetherick Point looks straight out on to the Doom Bar. On a summer day, a
pleasant and an innocent view, but in the time past some 300 ships including no less than three lifeboats have all come to grief on that treacherous sand bar.

At Daymer Baythere is unusually a choice of three routes - the official coastal route is possibly for once the most mundane. The more adventurous will go up Brea Hill, once the site of a Bronze Age barrow, for the view which is good, but after Pentire Point, it is something of an anticlimax. Definitely the most interesting route is inland, visiting St Enodoc Church.

ST ENODOC CHURCH

There are a number of places on the North Cornish coast which at times have been overwhelmed by sand; St Enodoc Church being one of them. In the 19th century to enable an annual service to be held, a hole was cut in the roof and the vicar and the church warden lowered inside. The church has been fully restored, partly helped by the Independent Society for Buildings and Churches, and now seemingly welcomes walkers because it says over the door ‘suitable provision is being made for poorer inhabitants’. Sir John Betjeman had a holiday cottage in the area and it was his wish to be buried at St Enodoc. His grave is just inside the gate. Note the domestic, not
military, mortars which form an unusual decoration along the east side of the church path from the fine lychgate. In the surrounding sandhills Roman artefacts such as beads and coins have been found.

The path behind the church has a hazard ‘Danger, beware of flying golf balls’. Painful too if they hit you. By the side of the stream are some fine aspen poplars - those that have the long leaf stalks so that the leaves are never still - the Welsh call them ‘Girls' tongues’! White painted rocks are your guides through the golf course.

The third alternative from Daymer Bay to Rock is along the beach.

Rock has the first ferry in Cornwall, but by no means the last; at present it operates all the year except Sundays in winter. If the tide is high, landing is at Padstow; if it is low, nearer to St Saviour's Point; low tide can be the more exciting because the ferry will bump its way over the sand bars. A thought to ponder is that it has been in operation for over 600 years.

PADSTOW

Padstow is an old and interesting town that was once a busy port. A building that is a reminder of its history is the Court House on the South Quay, and it was here that Sir Walter Raleigh held Court as Warden of Cornwall. The most famous cargo which passed down the Camel was the stone for the present Eddystone Lighthouse off
Plymouth. The saddest cargoes were the emigrants, during the Cornish depression; ships from Bristol called here on their way to the New World. In more recent times it was the terminus for the Southern Railway in Cornwall. They had a special fish quay and it was the end of the run for The Atlantic Coast Express which started at Waterloo Station in London.

On 1st May every year, Padstow celebrates the coming of summer, with the huge pagan ‘Obby ‘Oss celebration. Locals and visitors celebrate with parties and dancing in the streets.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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