Great South West Walk

Tuesday August 21

Section 34. PERRANPORTH TO PORTREATH. Miles: 12.2. Grading: Moderate

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at The Wateringhole in Perranporth at 1pm.
The walk will commence at 1.30pm.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

BUS SERVICES
First Western National services run between Perranporth and Portreath, and a service operated by Truronian (tel: 01872 273453) runs between Perranporth and St Agnes – please see our
current Annual Guide for details. Confirmation of all buses can be obtained from traveline on 0870 608 2608 www.traveline.org.uk

RAILWAYS
There are no railway links to this part of the path. However, by using buses, it is possible to link up with stations at Newquay and Redruth. For more information, please telephone National Rail Enquiries on 08457 484950.

MAPS
Landranger Series (scale 1:50 000) Number 204 - Truro and Falmouth, and Number 203 - Land's End.

Explorer Series (scale 1:25 000) Number 104 - Redruth, St Agnes, Camborne and Perranporth.

GENERAL
PERRANPORTH: accommodation, cafés, pubs, shops, toilets and public telephone.
TREVAUNANCE COVE: limited accommodation, pub, a couple of shops, some parking, toilets and public telephone.
ST AGNES (slightly inland from Trevaunance Cove): accommodation, pubs, shops (including a chemist) and public telephone.
PORTHTOWAN: pub, shop and toilets and public telephone. Also the popular Blue Bar Bistro, which is open all year.
PORTREATH: accommodation, pubs, some shops, toilets and public telephone.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Seiners Arms Hotel, Perranporth (tel: 01872 573368).
Churchtown, St Agnes (tel: 01872 554150)

The Route
PERRANPORTH TO ST AGNES

Annual Guide Section 24 (3.7 miles; 6.0 km) Grading: Moderate

This section contains some spectacular high level walking. Perranporth is a deservedly popular resort, and, even out of season, it is possible to see families out flying kites or on a picnic. It is a heart-warming and pleasant place. Perranporth takes its name from St Piran who arrived at Perran Sands somewhat unconventionally, floating on a millstone to which he had been tied by heathens and thrown over the cliffs of Southern Ireland in the 6th century. On making landfall he built a fire to warm himself and from the stones surrounding the fire ran a silvery liquid we know as tin. Thus St Piran became the patron saint of all Cornish Tinners.

After leaving the town and walking to the left of the Youth Hostel at Droskyn Point, which were once coastguards' cottages, you reach Shag Rock where there are many reminders of the tin and wolfram (tungstate of iron) mining. The shafts all around have long since lost their traditional timber capping, nowadays replaced by an invention known as a 'Clwyd Cap' after its
inventor's origin, a conical metal cage which resembles a giant plant-covered molehill. As with all molehills there are deep excavations below! For your safety DO NOT INVESTIGATE.

The next notable landmark is Cligga Head, the name derived from the Cornish word 'cegar' meaning 'cliff '. This again is riddled with mine adits (horizontal tunnels open to the air) and shafts, from mines such as Huel Leisure, Good Fortune, Perran St George's and Prudence. Here can be seen for the first time granite protruding through the killas, or short grained slate which makes up the majority of the Cornish coastal regions. The granite was forced up through the killas beds as a volcanic
intrusion some 180 million years ago, whilst the killas beds were formed some 60
million years previously. During these two periods, most of the rich mineralisation of the county took place.

The old works on Cligga Head (SW 740538) are those of the British and Colonial
Explosive Company which worked from 1891-1905 and were designed to produce 720 tons of dynamite per year, not only for the mining and quarrying industry, but also for armament production. The last owner of the works was the Nobel Explosive Co., rather ironic as the name is more synonymous with the Peace Prize in the 20th
Century. There were many accidents, a notable one occurred on 16th January, 1902. Whilst tramming 533 lbs of blasting gelatine, three workers were killed by a massive explosion when the tram derailed on a set of points. The explosion was felt in Truro 16 miles (26 km) away, shaking windows and doors, despite the accident occurring some way down the cliff.

To the south-west of this headland is Hanover Cove, probably named after the two-masted, square rigged Packet ship 'The Hanover', under the command of Captain
Joseph Sherburn, which foundered here in early December 1763 on passage from Lisbon to Falmouth with a mixed cargo, reported to be £60,000 in gold coins and
cannons of every type. Of the 27 crew and 6 passengers, only 3 seamen were saved.

The walker is reminded at this point that the coast path is by far the safest route along the cliffs; you should not be tempted to deviate to seaward, though old miners’ tracks may suggest a possible better view or photo
opportunity, notably around Pen a Grader. This Cornish name means 'Chair Head', the outline of which can be seen from the south-west side.

The cliffs looking north-east at this point display some of the most precarious mining activities, with most of the holes in the sheer face being worked from a series of rope walks and gantries. Notice the telltale colours red/orange indicating iron and arsenic, whereas the blue/green depict copper rich deposits.

From Cligga Head to Green Island on the south side of the coast path lies the Trevellas Airfield, a World War II satellite along with Predannack on the Lizard, to service RAF Portreath, which was in operation from summer 1940. On 12th February 1942, eight Hurricanes of the Canadian Air Force landed at the airfield in readiness for an attack on the battleships Scharnhorst and Prinz Eugen that had escaped from the port of Brest four days earlier.

These days you are more likely to see gliders using this area. It is worth noting that these aircraft are not as silent as you may have been led to believe and the sudden rush of air as one comes in to land may catch you unawares. This area is ideally
situated for this sport with the excellent thermals created by the high cliffs. At the south-western end of the runway the path takes you past many of the bunkers,
gunnery emplacements and high earth banks designed to protect the aircraft from wartime enemy attack.

With the descent into Trevellas Coombe ahead it is difficult to appreciate the view you would have encountered a century ago. The Jericho Valley (inland of the Coombe) was one of the most heavily industrialised areas on the North Cornish Coast. The incessant rumble of the sets of Cornish Stamps, water wheels and numerous steam engines for pumping and winding would have kept the most tired of walkers awake. Today a short detour inland will avail you of a greater understanding of tin mining in this area. The Blue Hills Tin Steam Works is all that remains working in this once hive of industry and of the Wills family, who have mined in the St Agnes area for many generations, only Colin and Mark remain to carry on the tradition. Blue Hills Mine worked the valley as an amalgamation of many small mines from 1810 until 1897.

From here the coast path crosses the road bridge and up the wide rough track to the west. The iron gate with its inscription gives an indication that the valley rings to a different and more modern sound on occasions. For this is one of the primary hill climb sections in the London to Land's End Trial for both two and four wheel vehicles held on Easter Saturday each year.

The walker may feel that the short cut across the boulders between Trevellas Porth and Trevaunance Cove at low tide is very inviting but this could prove foolhardy, as the rocks are usually wet and extremely slippery. Be assured, even vibrams don’t grip in these conditions! You will be well rewarded by remaining on the official coast path, as the view from the top, inland to St Agnes and beyond is not to be missed.

The descent into Trevaunance Cove gives a view into two of Cornwall's main industries. Mining remains are still to be seen both on the surrounding hills and in the valley below, but for the first time on this section can be seen fishing boats, though mainly involved in the lobster/crabbing trade with the occasional hand liner and a few diving craft, instead of the pilchard seiners that would have worked out of the port in the 19th century. The large four storey building in the valley floor dates from around 1798 and was used as a marine store for the newly built Trevaunance Harbour, but was converted into flats in 1927-8 by Eddy Tredinnick, a local builder, in response to the growing demands of the tourist trade.
The harbour was built by the famous Winstanley, best known as the builder of the wooden lighthouse in which he died on the Eddystone Rocks, south of Plymouth. The harbour at Trevaunance worked until 1915-16 after which it was lost to the sea.
Remains of the quays can still be seen at low tide.

ST AGNES TO PORTHTOWAN

Annual Guide Section 25 (4.6 miles; 7.4 km) Grading: moderate

As you rise up to the high level walking again the path crosses a concrete aqueduct, the earlier construction of which was of wood.

This was built in the early 18th century to carry water away from Huel Luna, part of which is the old open works to the left of the path. This mine closed in 1895. The
Polberro Mine rebuilt it to carry water from Turnavore Shaft which was where the engine house that can be seen nearby with its roof still intact is situated. Polberro was an amalgamation of many mines, with names such as North Sea Hole, Kine,
Trevaunance, Pye, Turnavore, Squidler, Prosper, Park and Dolgo. One can only imagine at the origins of such names. The water from these mines was left to run over the cliff, an indication that the steam engine had taken over from the waterwheel.

Once back at high level the path passes a white square building, this was once the Coastguard Lookout, but with the demise of that service in the area is now used by amateur radio enthusiasts. Hopes that the volunteer National Coastwatch Institution may reoccupy it in the future were dashed recently, but they continue to search for a suitable site to cover this section of coast.

On reaching St Agnes Head, take a moment to savour the view west to Godrevy Lighthouse, Hayle/St Ives Bay and on to the imposing granite of Trencrom Hill. Carn Brea can be seen inland to the south, and beyond to Carminellis with its television mast.

Carn Brea has two structures on its summit, on the eastern end is Carn Brea Castle, which was once a hunting lodge used by the Basset Family, as this area was once an oak forest, home of wild boar and deer. The forest was all cut down and turned into charcoal, a vital component when smelting tin. Today this building is a restaurant. The Bassets owned large tracts of land and many mines. As a monument to Sir
Francis Basset, Lord de Dunstanville, the 90 foot high (27 m) granite tower was built in 1836, the money raised by public subscription and an estimated 30 000 miners turned out for the laying of the foundation stone. This member of the Basset family, unusually, looked after his miners and their families by building Redruth hospital,
library, schools and many miners’ cottages; a rare gentleman in those times. Further along the coast path route west of Portreath you will walk past North Cliffs and
Tehidy Park, which was the Bassets' country estate.

Also from St Agnes Head, on a good day, can be seen shearwater, terns and many of the more common gulls using the thermals created by the high cliffs to full advantage, so putting on a tremendous aerobatics display. Offshore you may have the opportunity to spot gannets, a white bird usually in pairs or more flying just above the water a mile or so out to sea.

The inland footpath from Carn Gowla detours the walker to the granite outcrop of St Agnes Beacon, where again there are tremendous panoramic views of much of West Cornwall.

The path continues on past Tubby's Head where there are some faint
outlines of building remains of the early settlement, which date from the same period as the chapel remains to the right of the path as you descend into Chapel Porth. Along this section the rare white bell heather occurs; those lucky enough to find it are asked not to pick the plant but to leave it for others to enjoy.

At this point it is easy to miss the start of the path; as a rule of thumb, keep to the most seaward track. A few yards after you have passed an old wall bank with concrete posts on your left, the path drops down close to the cliff edge. There are a few well trodden paths which lead to a variety of rocky fishing marks used by many locals, so don't be confused.

As you walk along this section close to the cliff edge it is worth a detour slightly inland to view the mine buildings of the Huel Coates, Towanwrath Shaft which is owned, restored and cared for by The National Trust, possibly the most photographed engine house in the county, also appearing on the front cover of Daphne Du Maurier's book 'Vanishing Cornwall'. The word wheal has been misprinted on most maps from the Cornish word Huel which means workplace, not necessarily mine, maybe a quarry, or other industrial site.

The descent into Chapel Porth provides a moment to take a break for a cup of tea in the seasonal café – there are toilets nearby. The National Trust is to be congratulated for its unobtrusive work to convert the old mining buildings which littered the valley floor into the present day amenities for locals and visitors alike. The car park is often full in the summer months and surfers' camper vans abound throughout the winter, as this is one of the best beach breaks (waves) along this stretch of coast.

The coast path crosses the small stream at the seaward end of the car park, then inland along its south bank for 200 yards (180 m) before turning west up the wide stony track to Mulgram Hill. The mining remains here are from the Great Huel Charlotte. Although active for only six years from 1834-40, the mine produced almost 3 000 tons of copper.

As you approach Porthtowan, which translates as 'sand dune cove' in Cornish, notice the workings to the left of the path. This area has been exploited by Huel Towan, an important copper mine, although most of the remains are further up the valley.

This mine was financed by one Ralph Allen Daniell, who also owned Trelissick, the now National Trust property between Truro and Falmouth. His faith in the potential of this venture was eventually rewarded with handsome profits and the nickname 'Guinea-a-Minute Daniell'. On the opposite side of the valley floor is New Huel Towan engine house which was built in 1872 but has now been converted to a private dwelling. This was part of the Huel Lushington set and was designed to run 'flat rods' (oscillating rods to transfer power, sometimes over thousands of yards) into an adit in the hillside behind to operate a water pump, however an engine was never
nstalled, although one did arrive from Ireland via Penryn but was later broken up.

PORTHTOWAN TO PORTREATH

Annual Guide Section 26 (3.9 miles; 6.3 km) Grading: Strenuous

Porthtowan has many useful amenities for the walker; a paper/general store open all the year round, a good watering hole, The Unicorn and, during the season, numerous food shops/cafés.
The official path rises steadily up the service road through the houses on the west side of the valley.

On the open ground between here and the beach meadow cranesbill or wild geranium can be seen. Sea holly also grows around Porthtowan, a dusty pale blue plant, with smaller leaves than the more commonly used Christmas decoration. Again we would urge you to admire it but refrain from removing, so others can enjoy its beauty.

The cliffs along this section are very unstable, as the warning signs point out. The large rock a short distance from the western end of Porthtowan beach is Tobban Horse; this was once joined to the cliff. The name Tobban means 'mound' or 'bank' in Cornish and when as part of the cliff one can see how it gained the name. Between here and Sally's Bottom was the last sighting of the Cornish Chough in this district.

To the south of the path is Nancekuke Common, which became RAF Portreath when acquired by The War Ministry in 1939. Nancekuke was part of the Tehidy Estate, home of the Basset family. The estate was broken up in 1916 when most of the
tenant farmers took out mortgages to buy their own farms. Despite the promise of their return at the end of the war, the Ministry of Supply took over and it became a chemical warfare research establishment, so the farms were lost to what Ernest Landry says in his book, 'a poison factory on this lovely part of Cornwall's coast, a
disgrace and eyesore to any county in peace-time'. The name 'Nancekuke' means 'hollow valley' or should it be 'empty, worthless valley', food for thought! It was
returned to the RAF in the mid 1980s and is now part of the Early Warning System,
covering the North Atlantic using radar.

The concrete chimney with its brick-lined flue, comes from a boiler house which was attached to a steam pumping engine; this in turn serviced the shaft covered by the large square concrete 'bat castle'. This is all that remains of Vivian's or Ladder Shaft, part of the Huel Tye mine, which was amalgamated with West Huel Towan and closed in 1927.

The path now starts the first of two steep descents, the first into Sally's
Bottom.

On the valley floor the mine was known as Huel Sally, probably named after one Sally Peters, who was born in a thatched cottage near the head of the valley. She also worked as a 'bal maiden' breaking up ore prior to the stamping operation. The word 'bal' means to 'hit' or 'break' with a hammer. This building has been one of the
casualties of the present owners' occupation of the area! In old age Sally became a local legend for the help she administered to the sick and aged who might otherwise have been consigned to the workhouse. Sally Bay was also famed for the quality of its limpets and winkles. Ernest Landry tells of an old soldier with a wooden leg, who used to scale the cliff to the beach below once a week then sold them, cooked, in the street near Redruth town clock.

Before starting the climb out of the valley, turn back and notice the dressed boundary stone which has been built horizontally into the wall of the small shelter. This
probably was one of the markers to indicate the Basset Estate, note the 'B' carved into the exposed face. These buildings are from the wartime period and acted as shelters for the military personnel that manned the protective gunnery emplacements and inland rifle butts.

Following a short section of high level walking, you encounter the next steep descent into the quarried area at Hayle Ulla, 'Hayle' or 'Hale' means 'marshy ground'. Here, if you look back, can be seen Diamond Rock, obvious by its profile.

From the next promontory, Gooden Heane Point, can be seen the white 'daymark' on the headland above Portreath. This was built about 1800 as a navigational aid,
coastguard/pilot lookout and probably 'Huer's Hut' where local fishermen would watch for the arriving shoals of pilchards. Once spotted, the lookout would blow the 'Huer's Horn', hence 'Huer and Cry', to alert the village folk of the good harvest of the sea soon to be had. This structure is nicknamed 'The Pepper-pot'.

From here look across Portreath to the south-east, the large incline plane gives an indication of the past importance of this now mainly tourist orientated village. The
incline extended out onto the quays below and was one of the main ports for the
export of copper to Swansea and import of much needed coal, timber and pig iron for the vast number of mines, steam engines, tin smelters and foundries operating in the main mining district of Camborne and Redruth.

To avoid the sometimes busy walk on the road to the village, turn sharp right a short distance down the hill, opposite a house called 'Fairwinds' which leads to the quay below. Note the white painted structure to seaward up a flight of steps: this is known as 'Deadman's Hut' and was used as a
mortuary for wreck victims, as well as the 'Lower Coastguard' lookout. With the entrance to Portreath Harbour in view you can only marvel at the expert
seamanship required by the captains of the sailing ships who used to ply their trade from this bustling, busy port.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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