Great South West Walk

Friday August 24

Section 37. PENDEEN WATCH TO PORTHCURNO. Miles: 15.6. Grading: Moderate

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at Pendeen Lighthouse at 8am.
The walk will commence at 8.30am.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

BUS SERVICES
Services run between Pendeen and Porthcurno, and there are bus stops at Trewellard, Botallack, St Just, Sennen Cove, Land’s End and the Minack Theatre – please see our current Annual Guide for details. Confirmation of all buses can be obtained from traveline on 0870 608 2608
www.traveline.org.uk

TRAINS
The nearest railway station to this area is Penzance, which is on the
Penzance to Paddington main line, so you can reach the rest of the country from here. You will need to catch a bus from outside the station to the start of this section. For more information, please telephone National Rail
Enquiries on 08457 484950.

MAPS
Ordnance Survey Landranger series (scale 1:50,000) Number 203, Land's End and The Lizard.
Ordnance Survey Explorer series (scale 1:25,000) Number 102, Land's End,
Penzance and St Ives

GENERAL
PENDEEN (inland) : limited accommodation, pubs, car park and general shop.
TREWELLARD (inland) : limited accommodation, pub and public telephone.
BOTALLACK (inland) : pub and public telephone.
ST JUST (inland) : accommodation, shops (including a chemist), post office, pubs, car park, toilets and public telephone.
SENNEN COVE: accommodation, shops, refreshments, pub, car park, toilets and public telephone.
LAND’S END: limited accommodation, shop, refreshments, car park, toilets and
public telephone.
PORTHGWARRA: refreshments (seasonal), car park, toilets and public telephone.
PORTHCURNO: accommodation, shop, post office, refreshments (seasonal), car park, toilets and public telephone.

THE ROUTE
PENDEEN WATCH TO CAPE CORNWALL

Annual Guide Section 30 (4.0 miles – 6.5 km) Grading: Moderate

Pendeen Lighthouse was built in 1900 as this rugged coast had claimed so many ships and lives. It is incredible to note that the light of Trevose Head Lighthouse, near Padstow, could be seen by the Pendeen keeper, but only at low water – the earth’s curvature is just sufficient for the rising tide to obscure it from view. It is usually
possible to visit this fascinating lighthouse during the high season and certain other holidays (tel: 01736 786751).

The walk starts at the car park where you have to walk inland alongside the road. Your route is to the white cottages you can see about 0.25 mile (375 m) inland. You then walk the road until you reach the last of the white terraced houses where you turn right, off the road. A granite marker tells you it is 3.5 miles (5.25 km) to Cape Cornwall.

The path runs down a small valley with a stream towards the sea and after crossing that stream it runs on out onto airy cliffs. This section to Cape Cornwall is mainly well marked so you should not go far wrong.

As you round the cliff an amazing view greets you. The site of the Levant Mine is breathtaking with its old chimneys and red mud – the site has been restored and tidied recently, and it now looks less of a bombsite. The well-marked path takes you through the old Levant Dressing Floors which makes you wonder what went on within each and every ruined wall; what a banging and clattering must have been going on here 100 years ago.

As you walk through the site, you will notice a walled area to your right—if you look over the brick wall you will see the deep adit of Geevor Mine, which drained the upper levels of Geevor and other smaller mines in the area.

The path through the works is broad and leads towards two high brick-topped chimneys on the skyline. Moving on you will pass by, on your right, the National Trust Levant Beam Engine House, restored in 1993.

The Levant Beam Engine House is another fascinating place in a stunning setting. It is owned by the National Trust, and it is possible to visit the inside of it when the engine is running (seasonal). It is possible to see the entrance to the Levant adit if you have sharp eyes, and it is a humbling thought that the miners had to climb several hundred feet down this cliff before actually starting work. The mine at Levant used to run out under the sea for more than a mile and the miners could hear the waves breaking above them.

(If you turn left up the track from the Engine House and walk a pleasant 0.75 mile (1200 m) as it becomes Levant Road, you will come to Trewellard where there are seasonal refreshments and a pub.)

From the Beam Engine House the path is a broad gravel-type that goes straight on and completely ignores the coastline. Due to continuing work being carried out in this area, it is important that you keep to the signposted path.

Make sure you do not miss the sight of the much-photographed two engine houses of the Crowns Shaft mine at the foot of the cliffs behind you. It is possible to make a diversion to visit the buildings close up, but the classic photograph is best taken from the path itself. You pass the Botallack Count House on your left, which is now a visitor centre and managed by the National Trust.

It is possible to reach the small village of Botallack from the path, its main attraction being the Queen’s Arms. Beware if you are carrying a mobile phone in the pub – you will be fined if it rings in the pub, and the fine will be doubled if the ring-tone is judged to be silly – all fines are given to the RNLI.

About 300 yards (275 m) past Wheal Edward keep a sharp lookout for a sign directing you to the right off the granite-set driveway. Your route now leads you towards the sea and the ancient settlement at Kenidjack Castle. The official route leads towards more cliff top mining ruins, but a slight diversion will provide a more scenic walk.

You will cross a granite-stepped stile alongside a field gate. 200 yards (180 m) on from the stile, take a path on the right that leads towards a square sort of building that is overgrown with grass and gorse. The views from this point are grand and, not only that, from the vantage point you will see a path leading along the cliff towards the buildings that the official route would have taken you.

Kenidjack Castle is a pleasant place for a rest stop. The view ahead is dominated by the impressive Cape Cornwall and beyond that the Longships Lighthouse off Land's End is visible.

Proceeding on, the path drops to a broad gravel track where it turns left.

Before you do so just halt for a while and take in the sight of the ruins of many water-powered stamping houses where ores were once crushed.

Across the valley is a mine chimney and just above the top of that can be seen a path running left to right along the valley. Above that, at eye level, is the official path to Cape Cornwall. The choice is yours once you have crossed the stream in the valley bottom. If you decide upon the valley route then make sure you note you will have to negotiate your way up onto a higher one just below a white cottage.

From here the Coast Path goes inland for about 100 yards (90 m) to a signpost on the right. The path drops diagonally inland to the
valley floor then on to a footbridge further up the valley.

Once across, as above, the choice is yours. The official route climbs to a high level path with good views, but the lower one affords a gentler climb out of the valley bottom. Both routes join and lead onto a tarmac road. Turn right at this road and descend to the car park where, in season, refreshments can be obtained at a
temporary-type establishment.

CAPE CORNWALL

Before moving on to the next section it is strongly advised that you take stock of what time you have available. Cape Cornwall itself is not part of the Coast Path but we do recommend that you consider exploring it – it really is a worthwhile diversion. It once was thought to be England's most westerly point but as most visitors travel to Land's End, this Cape can often be deserted.

The top is crowned with a chimney of the old Cornwall Mine which ceased production in 1878. The headland itself was an iron age castle and the chapel, now a ruin, was dedicated to St Helen. The National Trust has owned the Cape since 1987 when the owners, H J Heinz Limited, donated it.

Out at sea are the Brisons Rocks upon which many ships have been wrecked.

If this is the end of your day then your B & B is probably just up the road at St Just, about 1 mile (1.6 km) inland.

CAPE CORNWALL TO SENNEN COVE

Annual Guide Section 31 (5.0 miles – 8.1 km) Grading: Moderate

From the car park descend into a small field where, at the bottom, turn left, descend granite steps then turn sharp left up a concrete-covered drive, then take a right turn onto a granite gravel covered track. Several white painted cottages are passed.

The steep climb ends at Carn Gloose where there are good views forward of Whitesand Bay and Sennen Cove. The path turns inland at Carn Gloose but within 20 yards (18 m) turn off right to take a track leading down into the Cot Valley.

Land's End Youth Hostel at Letcha Vean can be seen further up the valley.

At the road turn right and head towards the beach at Porth Nanven along a tarmac road. You can avoid about 100 yards (90 m) of road walking by taking off to the left about 100 yards (90 m) past a car park on your left with a picnic area on the right. You also save yourself a short but quite steep climb further down the valley.

The section between Porth Nanven and Gwynver Beach is a delight - whatever the state of the tide or weather, you are surrounded by golden granite. The path passes by three old mining adits before it takes a sharp left turn to take you up and over the next cliff which has, underneath it, the natural arch Progo.

The next climb is taken by using the zigzag path which makes the climb easier than it could have been. Admire the views as you climb making sure to look back for a view of the arch.

The path crosses over Gribba Point then descends across a field to a cove where, at almost sea level, it crosses over the stream of the Nanquidno Valley.

From here to Gwynver Beach the path is fairly level and the walking is moderate but the Coast Path is everything a Coast Path should be - we predict that everyone will enjoy this section!

Between Gwynver Beach and the sands of Sennen Cove the path runs along the edge of fast-eroding low cliffs. It is suggested you might consider walking the firm sands of Sennen Cove, at any time but very high tide, rather than the official soft sand route in the dunes at the back of the beach. The choice is yours.

SENNEN COVE TO PORTHCURNO

Annual Guide Section 32 (6.6 miles – 10.6 km) Grading: Moderate

The route ascends concrete steps at the far end of the village. It turns right then climbs towards a battlemented structure, a granite look-out post. From the lookout there are many well-worn paths to Land's End - needless to say, the best is the most seaward - just keep heading on towards the hotel block at Land's End. As you progress down from the lookout try to keep some attention on Land's End itself. At one point along the path the 50 yard (45 m) long cave through Dr Syntax's Head comes into view.

Once that headland has been reached you are at Land's End and probably sharing it with many others who have come by car to enjoy the view and visit the First and Last House gift shop – they don’t know what they are missing!

The best thing about Land's End is undoubtedly its seascape. On a really clear day it is possible to see the Isles of Scilly about 25 miles (37.5 km) away, and usually there are views of the lighthouses on Wolf Rock and the Longships. There are numerous offshore rocks with names ranging from Kettle’s Bottom to the more sinister Shark's Fin.
Even in comparatively calm weather the sea off Land's End is in a state of turmoil and in stormy weather the sight is more than dramatic. The Longships Lighthouse was built in 1873, is 50 feet (15 m) high on a rock base 60 feet (17 m) tall, yet in a gale it can look most insecure.

Land's End is firmly fixed in our minds as the opposite end of our Isle to John o'Groats some 873 miles (1309 km) away: the fact that Dunnet Head on the mainland of
Scotland is actually further north makes no difference. Because of this fixed idea of opposites, all sorts of motor trials, bicycle runs and even pedestrian events have been routed between the two.

The Coast Path passes on to Dr Johnson's Head where all facilities are available. The route passes in front of the hotel complex. Here you will encounter even more crowds enjoying the views and entertainment provided.

There are two interesting rock formations to seaward. First there is the chunky outline of the Armed Knight, and secondly the arched Enys Dodnan. These, usually together with the Longships as a background, have often been photographed and also appear in a picture painted by the artist Vernon Ward.

Proceeding on, be careful to watch for path rerouting. The proprietors of Land's End are trying to encourage the growth of grasses on areas badly affected by foot erosion. The path leads to Greeb
Cottage which now houses an animal collection. Once past this attraction the path resumes to the grandness you have experienced all the way from Porth Nanven.

As you approach Nanjizal Beach along a superb section, the path you see beyond the beach and above it is not the Coast Path - it is actually 100 yards (90 m) up the valley once you have bridged the small stream.

Sometimes there might not even be a bucket of sand on Nanjizal Beach - just large seaweed-covered granite blocks. At other times, the winter storms may well have
replenished the loss, and you will see an expanse of beautiful golden sands tempting you to halt and take a swim.

Since Land's End the Coast Path has passed through stunning granite scenery of castellated structures and each turn in the path brings more fascinating shapes to the eye, and there is still more to come!

It is a steep climb out of Nanjizal but the top is soon reached when the path levels off. Take a breather and look back across the bay to the great caves under Carn Boel. There are more at Pendower Cove.

Care should be taken to keep to the seaward path out to Gwennap Head. It is the official route but it can be tempting to keep to the easier, wider, inland path and you will miss many grand sights.

At Gwennap Head itself Lizard Point comes into view to really prove that you have changed direction and, if you are going that far, there are many days’ walking ahead. Look back and the Land's End complex can be seen; this is the last view you will get of it.

Tol-Pedn-Penwith means the 'holed headland of Penwith' and that hole is easy to miss. It is not marked on OS maps. From the Coastguard Station take the most seaward path, definitely do not take to the service road to the station. About 300 yards (275 m) from the building you will see a path leading down the cliff to the great hole where the path itself runs over a cave below, out of sight. It is up to you but if you do go to walk across the natural arch then take GREAT care and, having crossed over, bear left along a path to rejoin the higher Coast Path.

The two brightly painted daymarks on the cliff top were used as an early but not very effective method of warning mariners of the Runnel Stone. Your ears will probably already have warned you, because its buoy emits a sound like the dismal hoot of an unhappy owl. The Runnel Stone was a regular graveyard of ships, and between 1880 and 1923 no less than thirty steamers were wrecked or badly damaged there.

The path drops into Porthgwarra where, if tide permits, a walk down the granite slipway towards the beach is rewarding. From the beach you can walk up through a natural cave, out the other end then return to the refreshment hut (open early April - October).

The path leaves Porthgwarra along a track in front of cottages, then turns slightly inland to go behind another. The path is now easy to follow and is well-marked along Carn Barges. The path starts to drop steeply on nearing the stunning Porthchapel Beach but halfway down before you rush all the way down, we suggest a slight side step or two out onto a granite knoll. This vantage point will
provide a wonderful view of, what some do say, is the finest beach there is.

ST LEVAN

The next feature is the Holy Well and Chapel of St Levan who was one of the many Celtic mystics drawn to the lonely wilderness of West Cornwall. If time permits you should consider walking up the inland route from the well to visit St Levan's Church. You will have to retrace your steps back to the well. It is well worthwhile to visit the church. The churchyard has a granite boulder, St Levan's Stone, split in half and,
according to legend, when the gap grows wide enough to let a packhorse with panniers astride through, the world will end. It also has much evidence of the nearness and cruelty of the sea. For instance there is a plaque to the 'Khyber' wrecked in Porth Lee Cove on 15th March, 1905 (23 men of the crew of 26 being lost). The most
distinctive features inside the church are the bench ends. These depict amongst other things the two fish traditionally caught by St Levan on one hook, but the most unusual and best known one is the jester with ass's ears complete with cap and bells.

The Coast Path continues on from the well steeply down to a bridge crossing a stream that cascades steeply onto the back of the beach. You can descend to the beach for a swim or bear off left within 10 yards (9 m) of the bridge. The path traverses cliffs behind the beach then climbs towards the headland of Pedn-mên-an-mere. Sadly the route does not circuit the headland but cuts across
although we recommend you go out onto the point itself.

The path continues on to the Minack Theatre car park where you pass through a kissing gate and across the car park itself.

THE MINACK THEATRE

This theatre was created by Miss Rowena Cade in 1935, which includes shifting stones by wheelbarrow. It is based on a natural amphitheatre improved by
construction and the backdrop is the sea. A programme of plays is performed each summer, and there is surely not much that can surpass watching a performance here; it is so difficult to concentrate on the show whilst watching waves and the Logan Rock promontory, especially if the weather is not behaving. An interesting feature is the inscription of the names and date of productions over the years on the concrete
theatre seats. A visit, which entails a small contribution to the theatre's upkeep, is well worthwhile - there is certainly no other theatre like it in England.

After leaving the theatre the path drops very steeply to Porthcurno Beach. You will have already passed a notice back at the kissing gate – ‘A difficult descent not recommended for young children or elderly persons’. An alternative path is indicated. We certainly
support the warning as far as young children and the elderly are concerned and we could add that if one suffers badly from vertigo then go, have a look and make up your own mind. Although this does not help you now it is very much easier to climb up from the beach.

At the bottom turn left and unless you want a swim do not go onto the beach. If you do then be careful – swimming can be dangerous at times.

Your destination is Porthcurno, so continue straight onto the road. You will pass the Coast Path sign on the right ready and waiting for you when you continue on.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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