Great South West Walk

Saturday August 25

Section 40. PORTHLEVEN TO THE LIZARD. Miles: 13.9. Grading: Moderate

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at the Harbour Inn, Commercial Road, Porthleven,
Cornwall, TR13 9JB at 1pm.
The walk will commence at 1.30pm.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus Services
An all year service, including Sundays, runs from Truro railway station to
Lizard Green, and also stops at Mullion and Poldhu Cove. For more details please contact Truronian on 01872 273453

Trains
This section cannot be reached directly by train, but Truro station is on the main Plymouth to Penzance railway line, and it is possible to get a bus (see above) from outside the station.

Maps
Ordnance Survey Landranger series (scale 1:50 000) Number 203, Land's End and The Lizard.
Ordnance Survey Explorer series (scale 1: 25 000) The Lizard

General Information
Porthleven: accommodation, shops, pubs, car park,
Gunwalloe Fishing Cove: pub 0.25 mile (400 m) from the path.
Gunwalloe Church Cove: seasonal café, car park.
Poldhu Cove: seasonal café, car park.
Polurrian Cove: seasonal café, car park.
Mullion Cove: seasonal café, car park.
Mullion (0.5 mile/800 m) inland: accommodation, shops, cafés.
Kynance Cove: seasonal café, car park.
Lizard Point: very limited accommodation, cafés, car park.
Lizard Town: accommodation, pub, cafés, a couple of shops, car park.

The Route
Generally the path takes a southerly course on this section down the west side of the Lizard Peninsula with mainly level walking for the first 2.5 miles
(4 km) from Porthleven to Gunwalloe Fishing Cove. From thereon the path is sometimes indistinct, rough and more hilly, but with some easy stretches to compensate. The scenery is varied with panoramic views west across Mounts Bay and south between the major promontories and the occasional glimpse inland of the dishes at the Goonhilly Earth Satellite Station. Being largely exposed to the south west, periodic stormy seas continue to encroach on various cliff faces, sometimes necessitating path diversions.

There is a wealth of interest for bird watchers, geologists, and botanists with some rare species of flowering plants, which we are asked not to pick so that others may enjoy them. Serpentine, one of the oldest of rocks, is quarried on the Lizard, from which local craftsmen produce attractive ornaments for sale.

PORTHLEVEN TO MULLION COVE

PORTHLEVEN

Early in the 19th century the harbour was constructed to house the fishing fleet and to enable coal and general supplies for the nearby mines to be
imported. In the 1850s Harveys of Hayle leased the harbour and built the inner basin. Imports increased, and tin, copper and china clay were exported. Around this time Porthleven had become famous for the building of clippers, schooners and yachts which reached ports around the world. Fishing still just manages to survive – mainly for lobster, crab and crayfish – in this pleasant holiday resort.

Porthleven has become famous in recent years during bad weather for the photographs taken of large waves rolling onto this lee shore. One of the most enduring images of the storms in December, 1989 is the photograph taken of the Clock Tower of the Town Council building with waves seemingly crashing right over the top.

You start by walking down the east side of the harbour on to the sea front by the Clock Tower (part of the Town Council Building). Turn left up the hill and take each right hand fork past the sea front houses towards the Tye Rock Hotel, which is left to seaward. Cross the car
park below Parc-an-Als Cliff and zigzag up a short climb past the
National Trust sign. It is advisable to keep to the path on this section due to recent cliff falls and the presence of old mine workings. About a third of a mile (530 m) beyond a fenced-in open mine shaft on the right, descend the ramp to Loe Bar just before reaching the gated
entrance to Penrose Walks.

You are now on Porthleven Sands, which stretch from the town itself for about 2.5 miles (4 km) to Gunwalloe Fishing Cove. Inviting though the sea may look, notices warn us not to bathe here at any time. As you walk across the beach towards a memorial cross situated to the right of the ascending Coast Path, the magnificent spectacle of Loe Pool and Carminowe Creek emerges on your left.

LOE POOL

This is Cornwall's largest natural lake, which one can now walk right round, a distance of about 5 miles (8 km). Picnicking round the edge of the Pool is allowed, but swimming, fishing and boating are forbidden. A variety of water birds can be seen, many of which winter here and there is even a special viewing hide on the west bank about 1.25 miles (3 km) in from the beach.

The above-mentioned memorial cross is worth a visit, commemorating as it does the loss of HMS Anson, which foundered on this shore in 1807 and from where Henry Trengrouse got the idea for his invention of the rocket life-saving apparatus as he watched on helplessly.

To rejoin the path walk up to a gap in the wall which runs towards the sea. After about 450 yards (400 m) don't miss the unmarked path to the right, which returns you close to the cliff and later past the
remains of an old Pilchard Fishery to Gunwalloe Fishing Cove where you may see free gravel being hand shovelled from the beach into a trailer. 0.25 mile (400 m) up the road to the left is the Halzephron Inn.

If not visiting the pub, cross the gravelled road where you turn right and pass to the left of a house up on to Baulk Head, thence on a rather restricted route to a road by the partly castellated Halzephron House.

The path continues close to seaward of the road to an acorn post directing you down a short length of metalled road to the imposing Halzephron Cliff. It is worthwhile to walk out to the Point at its southern end to fully appreciate the wonderful panorama south towards
Predannack Head and west across Mounts Bay. Descend from the cliff past a few small coves to the road by Gunwalloe Church. This attractively-situated, mainly 15th century church with a detached west tower, is constantly threatened by cliff erosion and suffers periodic storm damage. Church Cove offers safe bathing, a seasonal café, and public toilets.

Take the road to the left of the Kerrier DC notice to bathers and walk left by the turning space at its end. Cross a stream by a wooden bridge. The path here runs between the top of the beach and the golf course. A short climb brings you to the car park on Carrag-a-pilaz Cliff. Just beyond here enjoy a more coastal but unmarked loop to the right, which rejoins the road shortly before it meets the main road from Cury to Mullion at Poldhu Cove, where there is a seasonal café and safe bathing except near low water.

Cross a stream by the road bridge and take the first road on the right between two stone pillars which is signed uphill towards a residential home. At a left bend turn right around Poldhu Point and up to the Marconi Monument, a convenient resting place where you can also read about the first transatlantic telegraph signals. About 0.5 mile (800 m) on from here you drop down to Polurrian Cove (bathing and seasonal café), cross a stream and ascend steep steps, pass to
seaward of the Polurrian Hotel and emerge onto an unmade road by the hotel entrance on the outskirts of Mullion.

Turn right here and pass to seaward of the cliff top houses to an open stretch, which takes you to a road beyond an old coastguard hut and the Mullion Cove Hotel. Return to the cliff at the end of t
he car park and there is now a steep descent past an old cannon to Mullion Cove, alternatively named Porth Mellin. This is a delightful, small fishing hamlet, largely unspoilt, with an island 300 yards
(275 m) offshore, providing a safe haven for many sea birds.

MULLION COVE TO LIZARD POINT

On this section, take care when walking over the serpentine (marble-like) rock which can be very slippery, especially when wet.

Do make sure that you start from Mullion refreshed and with reserves as there may not be another café for about 4.5 miles (7 km) until Kynance Cove; and 5.5 miles (9 km) at Lizard Town if walking out of season. There are four ascents/descents classified as steep between Mullion Cove and Kynance Cove, but plenty of flat walking in between with extensive breathtaking views.

MULLION

Mullion Cove harbour was built in the 1890s and financed by Lord Robartes of Lanhydrock so that fishermen could house their crab and lobster boats safely after the failure of the pilchard industry. There was also a lifeboat
station here between 1867 and 1909. Inland the village has all facilities and a 15th century church with interesting carved oak bench-ends.

Walk a few yards inland from Mullion harbour to a vehicle turning point to pick up the path for Mullion Cliff, which starts to seaward
behind the first house on the right. After the energetic walk to the top there is comfortable walking for about 1 mile (1.6 km) past the Chair and round Predannack. Anywhere along here you may see Exmoor ponies or Soay sheep grazing to keep coarse grasses, brambles and gorse under control, so that the rarer plants such as Cornish heath (only plentiful on the Lizard Peninsula) are not smothered.

Next comes a drop to Ogo-dour Cove (Cave of the Waters) and
immediately up again to the former level. Picking the way round
Vellan Head is not entirely straightforward, so take care to find the safe route down over a stile to Gew-Graze, or Soapy Cove as it was nicknamed due to the greyish-white mineral of a soapy texture which was quarried around here before the more accessible china clay
replaced it in about 1820 for use in the making of fine pottery.

There is another steep climb to the sheer cliff face of Pigeon Ogo, where fulmar and kittiwake nest; then you continue to stride past the jagged rock fangs of the Horse to the Rill, from where the Spanish Armada was reputedly first sighted. You then go east for a short way before descending steeply to the most famous of Cornish Coves,
Kynance.

KYNANCE COVE

Kynance Cove is best explored around low tide. Its name is derived from the Cornish ‘Kénans’, meaning an enclosed valley. The rocks are composed of both red and green mottled serpentine with intrusions of pink-coloured readily weathered granite gneiss. The beach pebbles, when wet, show up beautiful different colours. Asparagus Island, where wild asparagus still grows, has two blow holes, one of which called the Post Office, will post free your letter to King Neptune!

If the state of the tide permits, cross the back of the beach to climb the steps towards Kynance car park. About half way up, the Coast Path is signed to the right and a partly stepped track takes you up to the last viewing point of Kynance Cove. Continue on a grit track and take the seaward path just before the final sweep left to the car park. Alternatively, if the beach is covered, take the rough track up the
Valley which leads to the car park, leaving it to the right of the toilets via a gap in the wall. Walk diagonally left to the corner of this small field to rejoin the coast path.

Pentreath Beach soon appears, to which there is a steep, partly stepped, descent from the southern end, but no lifeguard patrol.
After negotiating two unbridged but narrow streams at Caerthillian Cove, you pass Crane Ledges and an area of delight for the botanist, particularly in late spring.

After rounding Holseer Cove continue south to Lizard Point, three
adjacent bluffs and the start of the headland rock outcrop, where sea birds can be seen nesting. Turning east you descend to Pistil Meadow, which is an attractive area.

PISTIL MEADOW

Pistil (from the Cornish ‘pystyll’) means waterfall, which here cascades over the cliff edge below the meadow. A more dramatic interpretation of Pistil
refers to the firearms, which included pistols, washed ashore from a shipwreck along with almost the entire crew, who were buried here in a mass grave. The meadow was then covered in tamarisk, some of which still grows by the bridge over the stream.

From here you make the final ascent towards the most southerly point of the English mainland, where, as you relax and refresh yourself, you might like to reflect that, since leaving Predannack, you have started to walk onto the only part of England South of the 50th parallel.

LIZARD TOWN

Known variously as Lizard Town, Lizard Village, The Lizard, and most
recently, Lizard, the residents here prefer you to call their settlement Lizard Town. It has little architectural charm, but it does have a cottage industry converting locally quarried serpentine stone into attractive ornaments. With its shops and pub it offers an excellent centre for walking the Lizard
Peninsula. Within easy walking distance from the village green are Landewednack Church, the Lifeboat Station, the Lion’s Den (a collapsed cave), the restored Marconi Workshop and Lizard Lighthouse.

Also of interest to the visitor may be The Lizard Pasty shop. In early 2000, an American food critic made some disparaging remarks about the Cornish Pasty. Ann Muller, who is the owner of the Pasty Shop and born and bred on the Lizard, started a campaign to show that nothing beats a proper Cornish Pasty! She has recently been invited to the United States to prove her point, so perhaps you might like to pay her a visit to taste her world-famous pasties!

From the National Trust sales office at England’s most southerly point you walk across the small free public car park to pick up the coast path behind Polbream Cove. Round the first corner you reach the Lizard Lighthouse which, with a beam range of 29 miles (47 km), helps to guide mariners through one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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