Tuesday August 28
Section 45. PORTLOE TO MEVAGISSEY. Miles: 12.3. Grading: Strenuous
Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at The Lugger Hotel, Portloe at 8.00am.
The walk will commence at 8.30am
Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.
Bus Services
This section of the coast path is very difficult to reach by public transport due to a lack of it! The quickest way is to perhaps get to Mevagissey by regular bus from St Austell and get a taxi from there to Portloe. There is also a limited service between Gorran Haven, Mevagissey and St Austell, run by Western Greyhound. Confirmation of bus services can be obtained from traveline on 0870 608 2608 www.traveline.org.uk
There is an extremely helpful taxi service operating in this area. Roseland Taxis telephone: 01872 501001 or 07929 0202406 or 07929 202407.
Trains
This section cannot be reached directly by train, but St Austell station is on the main Plymouth to Penzance railway line, and it is possible to get a bus (see above) from outside the station. (National Rail Enquiries 08457 484950.)
Maps
Ordnance Survey Landranger series (scale 1:50 000) Number 204 Truro and Falmouth.
Ordnance Survey Explorer series (scale 1:25 000) Number 105, Falmouth and Mevagissey.
General Information
Portloe: limited accommodation, pub, licensed tea room, post office, car park and public telephone.
East Portholland: seasonal snack bar, car park, public telephone, sub-post office and seasonal toilets.
Porthluney Cove: car park, toilets and seasonal café,
Gorran Haven: accommodation, pub, general shop, cafés, car park, public telephone and toilets.
Portmellon: pub (open from early March to end of October) and public telephone.
Mevagissey: accommodation, shops (including a chemist), pubs, cafés, toilets, car parks and public telephone.
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
St George’s Square, Mevagissey, St Austell, PL26 6UB telephone 01726 844857. Open all year.
The Route
This section is far removed from the main tourist track until you approach Mevagissey. There are many beaches, at least one of them deservedly popular, but on the whole you will be passing small and often unfrequented coves. The quiet nature of this stretch does mean that you will need to be prepared with food and water, especially if walking out of season, and also please be aware that mobile phone coverage is non-existent in places. This section gives you plenty of exercise nearly the whole way although it lessens as you come nearly to the end.
PORTLOE
Hidden away by larger resorts such as Falmouth and Portscatho, Portloe is a favourite for its seclusion – I particularly love the montbretia framing the coast path and the lovely gardens. It has a magical atmosphere for coast path walkers, as it is invisible from the path once you have left it! It remains unspoilt and such is its isolation that one finds it easier here than anywhere else to visualise the struggle just to survive of the people of Cornwall in the 19th century.
The church passed on the way up to the pub is worth a second glance since it was originally built as the lifeboat house in 1870. The difficulties of launching a ten-oared boat from such a position can well be imagined, and in 1877 she slipped out of control during a practice launch, damaging a shop. A new boathouse was then built on the beach, but the difficulties of launching in bad weather were such that, when after a further ten years the boat had still not performed its first rescue, the decision was taken to close down. The second boathouse became the village school and when that closed it served briefly as the village institute and is now the staff quarters of the Lugger Hotel.
The post office is worthy of mention because it serves cream teas! A world away perhaps from the usual post office in which you have unhappily queued, with nothing more to feast on than stamp adhesive! The post office stays open all year, with the exception of January, and serves refreshments throughout this period. The post office also sells general items, such as milk and water, and will provide packed lunches.
Portloe is also the village where the controversial television programme ‘Wild West’ starring Dawn French was filmed.
PORTLOE TO EAST PORTHOLLAND
The path out goes along the road and then shortly turns right on a picturesque path between houses. Go left at the National Trust sign for the Flagstaff to go behind the old coastguard lookout. From here the path continues for 0.5 mile (800 m) out to Caragloose Point with Shag Rock lying offshore. A short steep climb leads to a more level section offering good views forward, dominated by the massive bulk of The Dodman. A further 0.5 mile (800 m) brings you past a steep path down to Portlay Beach before dropping to a stream. Soon after the path climbs steeply inland to avoid Perbargus Point: continue straight ahead where you will see a sign pointing to West Portholland.
West Portholland comprises just a couple of rows of cottages, a chapel and two limekilns on the beach.
Do not be tempted to walk along the sea wall to reach East Portholland – the start is very rocky and it is easy to slip here - I have the scars to prove it.
East Portholland is a slightly larger community, with a sub post office which is open for 3 hours on a Tuesday. It is a pleasant place, and even the public toilets had flowers in them on a recent visit! Particularly look for the fascinating double doors on the front of the cottages which are nearest the sea.
EAST PORTHOLLAND TO GORRAN HAVEN
From here the path climbs, initially tarmac but steadily deteriorating, until after 0.5 mile (800 m) it disappears into a couple of fields, containing the roofless ruin of a coastguard watch house.
The true coast path here goes right and follows the edge of the fields, but it is obvious that a number of people at various times have walked across at higher level passing the ruined house – stick to the official route here as you’ll avoid having to walk a longer stretch of lane as you descend to Porthluney. Instead, keep to the field edge then cut the corner to follow a faint path. Continue on to go over a stile and down the lane towards Porthluney Cove. Beware of the traffic here, especially if the weather is good.
At the cove there is a refreshment kiosk in summer. On a recent visit there were Highland Cattle in nearby fields - not something you might expect to see from the coast path.
The Castle is best seen as you ascend the next part of the path. Although it looks medieval it was built in 1808 by John Nash, of Buckingham Palace and Brighton Pavilion fame. Viewed against the background of trees it can take on a fairy-tale appearance. According to one account it was built with roofs of papier-mâché but this was found to be unsatisfactory as it let the rain in. The gardens and house are occasionally open to the public.
Follow the interesting castellated walls, then take the path signed public footpath once over the stream. Cross half the first field, then turn sharp right after the metal gate to follow the edge of the cliff, then cut back up to a stile.
The path then climbs and descends to a wooden footbridge, bears right then goes over another bridge which traverses a stream above the almost inaccessible Lambsowden Cove, sheltered to the east by the spiky-backed Greeb Point. Around here the path is sinuous and the naked rock contrasts sharply with the bracken. You will also pass through two fantastic self-closing gates, supplied by the National Trust. Shortly you emerge into fields above Percunning Cove. Turn right into a lane and down into the Trust’s Hemmick Beach.
The ascent of The Dodman has now to be tackled. Continue steeply uphill and turn right at the Trust sign for the Dodman. It is comforting to see the signpost for Dodman Point 0.25 mile, as there have been few signs of late. The path then runs more or less level through the gorse for a few hundred yards. The path continues to go straight on, but do take a few moments to visit the granite cross, 373 feet (114 m) above sea level.
THE DODMAN
Dodman in reality means dead man and the name almost surely derives from a number of shipwrecks that have occurred on the point. It is said that the cross erected in 1896 was put up by the rector of St Michael Caerhays who had been particularly touched by the wreck of two destroyers, Thrasher and Lynx. Further it is also said that when the cross was erected he himself conducted a 24 four hour vigil by the cross. The Dodman is also the setting for Sir Arthur Quiller Couch's book 'Dead Man's Rock'.
Given binoculars and a clear day there is no better spot between Minehead and Swanage. Veryan Bay is seen in its entirety, with Portloe the merest gap in the cliff contrasting with the white houses of Portscatho showing above Gull Rock. Far beyond Black Head, past the Helford estuary, marks the horizon.
The most prominent object ahead is the 84 foot (25 m) high red and white daymark on Gribbin Head across St Austell Bay, erected to prevent confusion in fog with the Dodman. Beyond Looe Island the conical Rame Head should be visible and, if conditions are exceptional, even Bolt Tail with Dartmoor inland. As the path bears northwards, Bodmin Moor and then the 'Cornish Alps' behind St Austell form the inland horizon.
The way now lies through fields with little signposting but you are unlikely to go wrong. For the next mile it follows above the gently curving Bow or Vault Beach. Access to this never-crowded pebble beach is at the eastern end past Cadythew Rock.
Keep to the clearly defined path which eventually leads you into Gorran Haven. (If you wish to explore this small resort, take note that the coast path continues by turning right towards the beach then left up Church Street.)
GORRAN HAVEN
Gorran Haven is a fishing village of considerable antiquity. However its possession of a sandy beach means it can be crowded in summer. Once coal boats were beached here and the local children would collect any of the scattered coal. There were even a couple of communal mangle houses where the women went to wring out their clothes. A mile offshore are the Gwinges Rocks now made less hazardous with a bell buoy.
GORRAN HAVEN TO MEVAGISSEY
Turn right towards the beach then left up steep, narrow Church Street, past the diminutive chapel of St Just which was once used for storing fishing tackle. At the top of the street turn right along Cliff Road past the old coastguard houses. Soon you can climb over the stile and out into the fields again. You pass over Great Perhaver Point, once the site of ochre mines used in the manufacture of paint, and above the inaccessible Perhaver Beach.
After another mile (1.6 km) the path descends to Turbot Point and across the stream leading to Colona Beach.
The National Trust sign here records the name Bodrugan's Leap. There are many variants to the legend. It appears that Sir Henry Bodrugan was very much the robber baron of fiction and having backed the losing side during the Wars of the Roses was pursued from his manor house about a mile away by Sir Richard Edgcumbe and leapt with his horse over the cliff to a boat waiting to take him to France, his estates passing to the Edgcumbes.
The houses on Chapel Point give it a curiously Mediterranean aspect and were built with stone from the site as a speculation in the 1930s.
Bear right after the stile to follow above the line of the beach, then go straight on as signposted to cross the drive to the Point. The way then proceeds across fields until you are forced up on to the road that leads to Portmellon, virtually a suburb of Mevagissey.
There used to be a boat builders yard here but it has now become a housing development. The only trace you are likely to notice of the former occupation is some of the old launching rails still in place on the ramp going into the sea. The Rising Sun Inn opens only in season which is possibly not so surprising
here, because Portmellon is more subject to flooding by the sea at high tide than most places in Cornwall.
After a further 0.75 mile (1.2 km) of narrow road mostly without a pavement, you reach Mevagissey - there is a good view of the complex inner and outer harbours on the final descent. Turn right to go through a park on the right side of the road and we would recommend this. After you return to the road turn right down the steep set of steps to come out on the quay close to some public toilets.
MEVAGISSEY
It gets its strange name from two saints, Meva(n) and Issey. It is still one of the busiest fishing ports in the county, but the harbour area has become commercialised, as if determined to be another Polperro. One of Mevagissey's stranger claims to fame is that it was the first place in England to have electric street lighting! The story goes that this was because there was a surplus from a pilchard processing factory. (An illuminating comment on Cornish inventiveness is that Redruth in Cornwall claims to have had the first house to be lit by gas!)
Fishing was certainly once big business in Mevagissey. They built trading schooners to export the fish and often brought back cargoes of timber for the local coopers to make into barrels to pack yet more fish. The first recorded harbour work dates from the 15th century, the present inner harbour was built in the 18th and the big outer harbour in the 19th. The historian Polwhele once described the hard-working fishwives of the place as ‘boisterous females, ruder far than those who toil at Billingsgate’!
If you have some time to spare and are visiting in season, there is an interesting museum on the harbour. All usual facilities can be found in Mevagissey, including a bus service to St Austell – the bus stop is outside the Ship Inn.
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