Great South West Walk

Wednesday August 29

Section 48. FOWEY TO POLPERRO. Miles: 7.1. Grading: Strenuous

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at The Quay, Fowey at 12.30pm.
The walk will commence at 1pm.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

Bus Services
Polruan Bus: a lovely bus service which runs between Polruan, Polperro, Looe and Liskeard. The service is very limited, but runs on weekdays during June to September. Taking this bus is one of my annual treats! Telephone: 01726 870719.
Hambleys Coaches: an all year service linking Looe and Polperro to each other and to Plymouth. Telephone: 01503 220660.
First Western National: runs services between Par and Fowey, and Looe and Polperro all year round. (PLEASE NOTE: if you need a bus from Fowey, it is imperative that you check the displayed timetable at the Esplanade bus stop, as the regular 24 service no longer leaves from here – it is only the off peak 24B which stops here. Both services do stop in Lostwithiel Street which is uphill from Town Quay, where this section begins – the stop is almost opposite the turn off for Hanson Drive.)
Confirmation of all buses should be obtained from traveline on 0870 608 2608 www.traveline.org.uk

Trains
It is possible to take a train to Par (on the main line), then a bus to Fowey, from Par station. If your particular service is not stopping at Par, then it is possible to pick up the same bus to Fowey from St Austell station.
At the time of writing, it is still possible to take the wonderful Looe Valley Line from Looe to Liskeard, to join the main line there. This service as an all year round railway is currently under major threat of closure, or serious reduction in the service. For information on train services, please telephone National Rail Enquiries on 08457 484950.

Maps
Ordnance Survey Landranger series (scale 1:50 000) Numbers 200, Newquay and Bodmin and 201, Plymouth & Launceston area.
Ordnance Survey Explorer series (scale 1:25 000) , Number 107, St Austell & Liskeard.

General Information
FOWEY - accommodation, cafés, pubs, shops (including a chemist), post office, parking, public telephones and toilets.
POLRUAN - very limited accommodation, two pubs, a few shops, post office, parking, public telephones and toilets.
LANSALLOS (inland) - toilets and telephone box.
POLPERRO - accommodation, cafés, pubs, shops (including a chemist), post office, public telephones, parking at the top of the village and toilets.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Fowey: 5 South Street, Fowey, PL23 1AR. Tel: 01726 833616.

TAXIS
If you require a taxi, please contact Pelynt Private Hire on 01503 220901. Otherwise you could ring the National Taxi Hotline on 0800 654321, and you will be put through to the nearest participating cab firm.

FERRY
The Polruan Ferry Co Ltd: 01726 870232. This is an all-year service.

The Route
The stretch from Fowey to Polperro is tough going and worth every penny of its strenuous grading, but it is spectacular to the end and well worth the effort. You may be surprised at how quiet the path is here, considering how close to Polperro you are, and especially if you have been walking in the opposite direction! There is also the opportunity of taking a lovely diversion - a walk from Bodinnick to Polruan called the Hall Walk, and the details of this walk are given towards the end of this leaflet: it can be combined with the Polruan to Polperro section, should you so wish, without missing out on any of the coast path.

FOWEY

Fowey (which really is pronounced 'Foy' and not 'Fowee'!) is one of Cornwall's most beautiful towns, situated on the western bank of the River Fowey. The town flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries because of the rise in the pilchard industry. It is still very much in use today as a port, and you may see the large freighters of up to 10 000 tonnes involved in the export of china clay. The china clay port itself is situated landward of the town, so the business of loading the ships does not detract from its beauty. Fowey became popular as a tourist resort as the pilchard industry began to decline, and as a result of the writings by Sir Arthur Quiller Couch or 'Q' as he was known. He based his stories about Troy Town on Fowey, where he lived until his death in 1944. Fowey has all the facilities, plus a regular all-year bus service to both Par and St Austell railway stations.

Please note that although there is no set early closing day as such in Polruan, you should plan carefully before leaving Fowey. If you require food or drink, it may be an idea to get it in Fowey before crossing the river, as you may have difficulties otherwise. Sadly, Polruan now has no bakery, so be prepared. I once walked this stretch in late May (mid season), and the only place in the village from which it was possible to get food was the Lugger Inn on Polruan's quay. Polruan is the last opportunity for refreshment before Polperro.

FOWEY TO POLPERRO
Annual Guide section 52 (7.1 miles; 11.5 km) Grading - Strenuous

If you are starting from Fowey, you need to consider whether you are going to start your walk from Polruan to continue on the coast path, or whether you are going to undertake the Hall Walk.

If your choice is the former, you will need to take the passenger ferry across to Polruan. If you have walked from the direction of Charlestown and Par, you will (hopefully!) be walking along a road called The Esplanade. On the right, past the tea gardens of the Fowey Hotel, is a black and gold sign pointing you to the pedestrian ferry and some toilets (but if you wish to visit the town proper before crossing the river, continue ahead). However out of season the ferry operates from the Town Quay, which is further on.

To reach the Town Quay, continue along The Esplanade to its end. With the Ship public house on your left, go round to the right around the side of the aquarium, and you will come out onto Trafalgar Square and the quay from where the ferry departs. If you are unsure whether you are in high or low season, do not despair, as there is always a notice at the Town Quay regarding the departure of this all-year round ferry.

If you wish to undertake the Hall Walk, you need to catch the vehicular ferry to Bodinnick from Caffamill Pill, where there is a large car park. To find this ferry from the Town Quay, keep on the main road through Fowey, which is Fore Street, which then becomes North Street, then Passage Street. Just by a post box, make sure you do not get tempted by the small slipway on your right. Just follow the road round, and turn right where the sign points to some toilets. Go into the car park, and you catch the ferry from just behind the toilets. Full details of this walk may be found at the end of this path description.

POLRUAN

One of Cornwall's best kept secrets and a personal favourite, Polruan is smaller and more peaceful than Fowey across the water, and has its own unique atmosphere. There are a couple of pubs, a general village shop and an amazing car park!! Those who have driven to Polruan, and parked in the top car park will know why, and those on foot will find out why it is amazing a bit later!

Whether you have come across on the passenger ferry from Fowey, completed the Hall Walk or are just starting your walk from Polruan itself, it is nice to start from the quay, which has been tastefully renovated. There are toilets there and several thoughtfully-sited benches to enable you to take in the views before setting off.

(If you require refreshment of the non-alcoholic kind, from the quay you need to turn left, then turn right after The Quay House. This brings you into Polruan's main street, and you will find tearooms, a general shop and the post office. Be warned, it is a steep climb up, and you'll miss some lovely scenery if your journey wasn't that necessary! To return to the coast path, turn right into School Lane by a couple of barriers. As you come to a crossroads, walk straight on, and bear left at the village hall to go up a concrete path. Follow this round to the right as it comes out by some toilets and the car park. Having admired the view, turn left after the toilets, then walk towards the coastguard lookout and the ruin of a massive wall. Take the tiled path in front of you to rejoin the path.)

From the quay, go straight on to climb the steps at the side of the Lugger public house. These steps are called Garrett Steps, and you turn sharp right into West Street at the top. The views along here are lovely, particularly of Fowey and its church, the church of St Fimbarrus.

When you reach Battery Lane, turn left unless you want to see Polruan's 15th century blockhouse, which is well signposted and worth a short detour. Ignore a left hand turn to some garages to keep straight on. As the road forks, bear round to the right.

As you bear left, the path becomes rocky, and you can get a glimpse back of the coast behind you: the red and white daymark on top of Gribbin Head, and the bulk of the Dodman, which is the large headland further away. As the path forks, continue straight on, ignoring the left hand turn. As you pass a footpath on your left, you may turn right to visit St Saviour's Point, also known as the Peak; nothing will be gained by doing this, but it is an attractive place.

The coast path runs behind some bushes, and leads you alongside the edge of a car park. If you've not been to this car park before, you are well advised to go up the steps on your left, and pay it a visit. You may think that you are seeing things and that the altitude is affecting you - you have just been advised to divert from the coast path to visit a car park?! If you take the hint, you will know why immediately, as the view from the top is quite breathtaking - you can see the River Fowey in all its glory, and the town looks fantastic. You also have the advantage of being able to use the last toilets before Polperro if you do take this unusual detour.

As you take the track to your right, you'll pass the Polruan Coastguard Station on your left. This track joins a tiled path which leads from the Coastguard Station. You then pass the coastguard lookout, which is now staffed by the volunteers of the National Coastwatch Institution. Keep on this tiled path until it ends, then it merges into the road by Polruan Primary School, which you pass on your left. Keep in to the right, as this road is used by traffic, and follow the line of a stone wall. On the right ahead, you'll see a rubbish bin just opposite a sign saying Furze Park. Just by the bin, turn right and follow the path round to go through a gate to join the coast path proper; this will be the last time you see so-called civilisation for a while, and, if you're lucky with the weather, you should be able to make out Lizard Point, the most southerly point of England, beyond the Dodman. The path here is very obvious, and you'll have no navigational problems. As the village of Polruan diminishes, you see a rocky outcrop ahead, and it gives you a rough idea of what to expect; it may surprise those who consider the South Cornish coast to be somewhat tamer than the North.

The path continues to be well-defined as you go over a stile, and the path climbs, leading you to a wooden footbridge. The path climbs a bit more, then you go through a gate, keeping to the well-defined path. Go through another two gates to bring you into the area of the rocky outcrop. The path climbs steeply on rocky steps. When you reach the top, ignore the right hand turn, unless you want to look at the view. Go through another gate, and the path goes straight ahead, ignoring the left hand track. Go through a further gate. As you climb higher, you should be able to see inland to the smoking chimneys of Par, and the clay villages and tips of St Austell. The path goes round to the right by an electric fence, which is quite a subtle one, and no bad thing.

As you come to Blackbottle Rock (currently no sign), there is a bench on the right, which I am convinced was created solely for the consumption of a certain type of confectionery which helps you to work, rest and play (and for spectacular views in all directions, of course). One of the most interesting features of the view is the knobbly headland ahead - this is Pencarrow Head.

As the path bears round to the left, the secluded beaches of Lantic Bay come into view, and, as you get closer to the access path on the headland later, you'll see exactly to what lengths (or should it be climbs?) people will go to get peace and a beach simultaneously. Take the right hand path to go down some steps when you get to a National Trust money box by a bench to go over a stile. The path gradually descends, then you climb a stile to descend further as the path levels out to go behind Lantic Bay.

As you approach Pencarrow Head, you'll get an idea of the climb which faces you. To divert your attention, Pencarrow is owned by the National Trust, and is extremely well looked after. Recently, the Trust has been grazing sheep there to restore the coastal grassland, and Dartmoor ponies have also been grazing there. In addition, all the steps have recently been rebuilt, and the Trust also usually puts up informative notices advising of its latest projects here.

If you wish to take the lower, longer but more scenic route around the Head, you don't have to climb all the way to the top, but you are excused the last bit! With the adjective 'cardiovascular' reeling in your mind, turn right at the stile, and take the right hand path down some steps. On your right is Great Lantic Beach, and the well constructed path on the right, which is actually wider than our path, is in fact the access path to the beach, and should be ignored.

(If you wish to be official, go right to the top, and climb over the stile by a gate. Take the right hand turn to pass a bench. As the path forks, take the right hand fork.)

Whichever route you've taken, the climb you've just done is good practice for the not too distant future. It may be of interest to you to know that the Association is currently campaigning for the lower path to be made the 'official' route around this lovely headland.

The two paths meet at a crossroads, where the southerly path leads out to the Head, although not to the very edge. A diversion will take only a few moments, and it's a lovely place in general to stop for a break. Take the eastern path to continue on your way, taking care as you descend; the path here always seems to be a bit slippery whether wet or dry, and the views can distract.

As the path descends, it bears round to the left. Climb some steps cut into a rock, then over a stile. Ahead and slightly to your right, the tower of Lansallos Church comes into view, and on the right down by the rocks, you'll see a property called the Watch House. Ignore a track to your right, which is a loop path. As the path descends, you will see a bench down on your right, which is where the above-mentioned loop path comes out; this is where you are aiming to be, so as the path forks into two tracks, take the right hand track, which you will see leads down to the path by the bench; this area is called Sandingway.

As the track bears round to the left, you keep right to walk behind the cove, keeping close to the edge of the cliff (within reason). If you are confused, just take the most seaward option. This path leads you down some steps, across a wooden footbridge, and up onto an old fashioned stile, then down onto another footbridge over a stream, and you again keep close to the edge. Aim for the gap in the hedge, which you go through, then take the right hand most path but one (i.e. ignoring the path down to a gate on your right). The tower which comes into view is that of Lansallos Church.

The path passes two benches, a stile and then descends steeply into the charming Lansallos Cove, which marks the half way point between Polruan and Polperro (and where you normally meet someone who will cheerfully advise you that the worst is yet to come!). Climb an old stile, which leads to a footbridge. Ignoring the subsidiary paths, follow the path round to a second stile, which you should climb slowly to observe the waterfall to your right.

LANSALLOS COVE

This beautiful place is marked on maps as West Coombe, and is well worth a visit, especially if you have your swimming costume with you. Turn right to walk down a rock cut cart track, which leads onto the beach, and used to be used by farmers for easier collection of seaweed and sand. You will find a superb picnic-sized rock there.

During 2003 I was privileged to take a guided evening walk around Lansallos Church, down the wonderfully-named ‘Kiss me arse steps’, and along the coast path to this cove. Our group arrived as night was falling, and the Cove with the moon shining on the water was beyond words. We returned to the village by the steep cart track, with our guide holding a lantern, so that we felt just like smugglers! This walk is called ‘Sand and Smugglers’ and may coincide with your visit – please ring Association member Mark Camp of Walkaboutwest on 01503 273060 for details.

The official route is followed by turning left at the second stile, and walking up the track towards a gate, before which you turn sharp right to follow a sign for the coast path, unless you wish to visit the village of Lansallos and its church, in which case you go straight on to go through two gates.

Keep straight on and climb a stile, ignoring temptations to take other paths. After a fine stretch of nearly level walking, the obelisk, a daymark to shipping, comes into view. You can also see (and may be able to hear) a buoy out to sea, warning of the Udder Rocks. Descend to cross a wooden footbridge. By a wooden signpost on your left are some steps - this leads to Little Lizzen, which is where Marie Stopes (1880-1958), the family planning pioneer, once had a holiday cottage. You now head for the obelisk, where you can delay the inevitable and look behind you at the view beyond to St Austell Bay. Your relief at reaching the top is however short-lived as you see your next piece of path: the joyous discovery of more steps, and they're all going up! You may however, gain a crumb of comfort in knowing that you won't get a third ascent if you're walking to Polperro: if you're going to Polruan, the news is not quite so good! Go down some steps to cross a wooden bridge. It is at this point that I have several times met families taking bets on how many steps there are here - I personally try to think about anything but steps, but I do know that there are lots. Thankfully, the path continues without problems.

When you reach the National Trust sign for Raphael Cliff, look to your right to see an attractive if unspectacular rock arch. Bear round to the left, then follow a rocky path down. Care is needed shortly as the path does go close to the edge, and the adrenaline will pump a bit if there is a gale blowing. More steps lead downwards, then steeply up the shoulder of the cliff.

The conical headland of Rame Head in Cornwall is now in view, along with Bolt Tail in Devon if you have the weather on your side. As you cross a stream, the sign for Chapel (pronounced Chay-pell) Cliff is in front of you.

The path goes quite close to the edge, then up some rock steps. Ignore the path off to your left. You are now on your final approach to Polperro, and as you catch sight of a white miniature lighthouse ahead, you'll get an idea of how far you have to go - the lighthouse is after Polperro.

Ignore the path off to your right opposite a junction, but follow the sign pointing to the coast path. Once you've made this ascent, you've done the worst - was it as bad as all that?! As our Annual Guide says, if you've been walking since Minehead, you'll probably not think so, but you must agree it's surprisingly tough in places. Enjoy the easy path, and don't be tempted by subsidiary paths. Eventually, you come to a rocky outcrop on your left as you get your first glimpse of the last houses in Polperro, and the official path turns right here down a rocky path, which is the most seaward. If you decide to take another path, of which there are several, you won't go far wrong, but the official path does give you an excellent view from Peak Rock out to sea and across the harbour, which, if your visit is a fleeting one, it would be a pity to miss.

Due to past vandalism, the National Trust is reluctant to put up signposts here, so keep to the main path, then turn right at a T-junction. (During 2003, a signpost was erected, but not on the coast path, so if you see a signpost which indicates that you have come the wrong way, simply ignore it!) Keep straight on, aiming in the general direction of the rock with a bench on it; this is Peak Rock. When you have finished taking in the views, turn left and follow the path with a fence to your right, admiring Polperro's Inner and Outer Harbours as you do so. You can take the flight of steps down on your right by the green 'doggie' bin, which brings you out onto the harbour, and by the popular Blue Peter Inn.

Turn right to explore the harbour, and left for the coast path and the village, passing toilets, the Three Pilchards pub and the Barkhouse Restaurant as you go. Turn right to cross the bridge by the Inner Harbour, if you want to rush through, but try and enjoy this lovely village with its cosy pubs and interesting shops before leaving, if at all possible.

If your journey ends here, turn left after the bridge and follow the main road through Polperro up to the Crumplehorn Inn at the top of the village. Opposite is the main car park, and by turning left here, you will see the bus stop for buses to Looe, Polruan and Plymouth – please see below for details.

POLPERRO

What more can one say about Polperro that the guide books and tourism brochures have not already said? It is a quaint Cornish fishing village, much painted and photographed, but surprisingly quiet during the Winter: if you're walking on a low season Sunday and don't like pubs, do go prepared. Polperro is undoubtedly at its best on a nice day out of the main tourist season, of which there are many, and with the tide in. Whenever you come, it is a charming place, and a compulsory stop for many international coach tours which are 'doing' England and Cornwall, but remember that they aren't seeing it at its best, which you are!

Liz Woollard, February 2004
Illustration by Alex Wallis

BODINNICK TO POLRUAN - THE HALL WALK

This is a really lovely walk, and well worth doing if you have the time and good weather. It is a 4 mile (6 km) leisurely walk, but not one that I would recommend doing after a day's coast path walking. Ideally, this is a lovely walk to do prior to walking from Fowey, or as part of a day off. Because it is rarely dry in the predominantly wooded areas, I would make this a walk for walking boots or stout shoes rather than trainers.

As you cross on the ferry, you have a super view of the docks, and may see a ship being loaded with china clay. You will also see a large cream and blue house on your right by the slipway on the other side: this is 'Ferryside', which was once the home of the author, Daphne du Maurier. As you get off the ferry, go straight up the road into the beautiful village of Bodinnick, aiming towards the Old Ferry Inn, a magnificent building which you pass on your left. There is plenty to take your mind off the steep climb; lovely gardens and the small St John's church.

As you pass a large property on your right, you'll see a finger post and a stone plaque on the right pointing to the Hall Walk, Pont and Polruan. As you start the walk, you'll see why it is one of the most popular walks amongst East Cornwall's population. There are many benches to enable you to have a sit down as you admire the superb views across to Fowey. Shortly, you come to the Fowey War Memorial. This is a joint memorial to both those who gave their lives in the Second World War, and to the author, Sir Arthur Quiller Couch, who is mentioned above. As you progress, the view of Polruan to your left, Fowey to your right, and St Austell Bay in the background is superb; you certainly won't make good progress on this walk, as the views are compulsive! On your left is a stone building, and a National Trust money box, and on your right is the striking memorial to Sir Arthur Quiller Couch; this is Penleath Point. The view from here is truly unbelievable, probably the best on this walk, and should be enjoyed at length! Continue on the path, ignoring the path leading down from the memorial, and the creek opens up below. Up and slightly to the right, the tower of Lanteglos Church becomes visible.

Ignore a path to your right. Climb over a stile by a Trust omega sign for the Hall Walk. The path now goes round the edge of a field, then turns right over a slate cattle grid to go back into the woods.

The path becomes rocky and muddy, and as you go down, you'll see a sign for Polruan, which you follow by making a sharp right turn. This brings you out into Pont Pill, which is a very atmospheric strange sort of place, and which the National Trust in its booklet describes perfectly as a 'silent private place where old boats go to die'. Cross the footbridge in front of you and pass the Farmhouse on your right, ignoring the left hand turn through a gate. Pass the cottages and follow a stream - it really is as idyllic as it sounds! On your right you take the steps to follow another sign to Polruan. Go up more steps, climb a stile, then turn left and up more steps, ignoring a left turn to a gate.

Go over a stile. When you reach the Trust sign for Pont Pill, take the right hand fork, unless you have the time and inclination to visit Lanteglos Church, in which case you take the left hand fork. Going downwards, ignore the right hand turn and take the left hand upper path where the path forks. Cross a stream and go through more woods. Go straight on where a path joins from the left. It then becomes tarmac, and you follow a wooden sign to take the left hand fork to Polruan.

You get some lovely glimpses of Fowey, and as you get closer to Polruan, the number of benches increases. Pass the Trust sign for North Downs, and ignore a right turn. The woodlands end and the path forks by a house; take the right hand fork, and the path starts to go down and becomes concrete. Pass a house called Springhill on your right and Springhill Cottage on your left. Turn right to go down some steps with railings, and turn left into East Street.

At the end of the street, turn right for the quay, and left for tearooms and the shops. If you want to start on the coast path, go straight on into West Street by the sign for the Russell Inn. If you wish to return to Fowey, simply get on the passenger ferry, which departs from the quay.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

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