Great South West Walk

Thursday August 30

Section 49. POLPERRO TO LOOE. Miles: 5. Grading: Moderate

Start time and location
Could you please report for registration at The Three Pilchards, The Quay,
Polperro, Looe, Cornwall, L13 2QZ at 8am.
The walk will commence at 8.30am.

Parking
Plenty of parking avaialble at start points.

BUS SERVICES
Hambleys Coaches: an all year service linking Looe and Polperro to each other and to Plymouth. Telephone: 01503 220660.
Polruan Bus: a lovely bus service which runs between Polruan, Polperro, Looe and Liskeard. The service is very limited, but runs on most weekdays from June to September. Telephone: 01726 870719.
First runs the 81a service which links Looe and Polperro to Plymouth all year.
Confirmation of all buses should be obtained from traveline on 0870 608 2608 www.traveline.org.uk before relying on a service.

RAILWAYS
At the time of writing, it is still possible to take the wonderful Looe Valley Line from Looe to Liskeard, to join the main Paddington to Penzance line there. This service as an all year round railway is currently under major threat of closure, or serious reduction in the service. For information on train services, contact National Rail Enquiries on 08457 484950.

TAXIS
Pelynt private hire (01503 220901) will pick up from Polperro. Reliable taxi firms in Looe include: Looe Cabs (01503 265983), Crystal Cabs (01503 263636), Kells Cabs (01503 263532) and Looe Taxis (01503 262405).

FERRY
A passenger ferry runs between West and East Looe. It is dependent on tide and weather and gives you an alternative to crossing Looe Bridge if you are in a hurry to start on your next piece of path!

MAPS
Ordnance Survey Landranger series (scale 1:50 000) Number 201, Plymouth & Launceston area.
Ordnance Survey Explorer series (scale 1:25 000) Number 107, St Austell & Liskeard.
Maps are reproduced in conjunction with Cornwall County Council by permission of Ordnance Survey (based mapping) on behalf of The Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, © Crown Copyright 100019590.
Maps in this path description were drawn by Keith Sokell and the South West Coast Path Association acknowledges his assistance with this work

GENERAL
POLPERRO - accommodation, cafés, pubs, shops (including a chemist), post office, parking at the top of the village, toilets and public telephones (note that it is not currently possible to receive a mobile phone signal in the village and surrounding area).
TALLAND - café and licensed bar, both seasonal (note: do not rely on either being open in season - both were closed on a wet July lunch time), parking, toilets and a telephone box.
WEST LOOE - accommodation, cafés , two pubs, some shops, post office (in Spar shop), Discovery Centre, main car park, toilets and public telephone.
EAST LOOE - accommodation, cafés , restaurants, pubs, shops (including 2 chemists), post office, some parking and toilets.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Looe (seasonal): The Guildhall, Fore Street, East Looe, PL13 1AA. Tel: 01503 262072.
South East Cornwall Discovery Centre: usually open from mid February to Christmas. Millpool, Looe, PL13 2AF. Tel: 01503 262777. Has a free exhibition and a shop which sells many interesting books and locally made products.

The Route
POLPERRO TO LOOE

Annual Guide section 53 (5 miles; 8 km) Grading - Moderate

From the bridge by the Inner Harbour, with the House on Props on your left, turn right to go up The Warren. Keep on this attractive winding street, passing the ever-popular Shell House on your left. The Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing is passed on your right, with an access point down to the harbour

There are some pleasantly sited benches donated both by Looe Lions Club and the Polperro British Legion. Continue straight on, following the line of the fence.

The path soon forks, and you take the left hand, upper path, signposted to Talland. (The lower path leads to Reuben's Walk, named after a former harbourmaster, and takes you to Polperro's miniature lighthouse: if you decide to visit the lighthouse, there is a path which takes you back up to the coast path.) The flowers up here are spectacular in early summer - mallow and bear's breeches literally cascading over the path, and, as the path bears round to the left, stop and admire the view of Polperro: most of the tourist hordes never get to see this superior viewpoint, and it is an ideal place to take a last photo of Polperro, and a relatively people-free one at that!

If you are walking on a reasonably clear day, your view behind will reveal Dodman Point, and, if you are really fortunate, Lizard Point. If the conditions are exceptionally clear (often in January), you may be able to spot the satellite dishes on the top of Goonhilly Downs on the Lizard peninsula. As the path begins to climb, stop and turn back for a view of the lighthouse, and also look down at the rocks below, as there are usually lots of cormorants on them.

The path now climbs, and there is an attractive stone marker almost at the top of the hill indicating right for Talland.

You will probably have noted the number of benches available, enabling you to admire views and rest, and those who are walking the whole South West Coast Path may grin wryly when you compare this tame stretch to what has gone before!

As the path descends, it becomes rocky, so care is needed in wet weather, and do take a few moments to visit the superbly sited War memorial on your right, erected in memory of the people of Talland and Polperro who gave their lives in both World Wars. The view from here is attractive, too, and more benches make this a good site for a break if required. Rejoin the path and bear left.

The church which has come into view on your right is Talland Church, with its detached tower. Ignore a path to your right with a couple of stone steps. You may notice the National Trust omega sign on your left, stating that Polperro is 2 miles away: if you are walking to Looe, you haven't come that far, and if you're walking to Polperro, it really isn't that far! Turn round to the right onto a tarmac path, which may sometimes be used for access by cars as there is accommodation here.

As the road bears left, take the footpath off right, then go left to go through a v-shaped stile. Turn right to go down a very steep path, follow it round to the left, then turn right onto the road and into Talland itself.

TALLAND

Talland is popular with families as the beach is quiet, although not as sandy as Looe beach, and it has the basic facilities required for a day out. It was a smugglers' haunt in days gone by, and quite recent days, too. It is an attractive bay, with its mauve and grey rocks. It has an interesting church, which is visible from the path, with its tower separate from the main building. If you wish to visit the church, see below, as it will require a detour involving a very steep climb.

Having passed the beach on your right and the café on your left, bear round to the left - there are toilets in front of you, the last until Looe. Go round to the right to join the road, and follow, taking care as you go as this is usually a busy road if the weather is good, and at weekends especially. The Association is campaigning for the path here to be taken off the road, so, watch this space...

If you require the Smuggler's Rest, you turn left as signposted, or right to continue on the coast path to cut through a small car park.

(If you wish to visit Talland Church, follow the road up, and it is on your right. The road is incredibly steep, and only for the really enthusiastic. If you want to continue inland for a while, you can keep on the road, having visited the church, and turn right at the sign for Hendersick Farm in the National Trust car park, and follow the signs down into the valley to rejoin the coast path there.)

Go through the gate, and up the steep steps, which really are a vast improvement on what the path was like before, especially in wet weather. At the top, most people will want a break, and there is a lovely view of Talland Bay from here. Continue to follow the rocky path ahead as it bears slightly to the left. There is a flat rock to your right, Aesop's Bed, which has grass growing on top: I have even seen daffodils on it in spring! The path here is obvious, and it would be quite difficult to go wrong.

After approximately 0.5 mile (800 m) you climb some steps and a stile to bring you onto the National Trust's Hendersick property, named after a nearby farm.
The Hore Stone (drawing by Alex Wallis)

As you pass the flat rock, the Hore Stone, on your right, you should get a fine view of Rame Head (the pyramid-shaped headland on your right) in Cornwall, and Bolt Tail in Devon if you are really lucky with the weather! Climb a stile and you'll get your first view of Looe Island: if you're walking the path as a whole, the Island hasn't been visible since Mevagissey. This point here is called Hore Point, and it's a good place for a break, as the view across Looe Bay is lovely.

The white houses about a mile on your right are in Hannafore, which marks the outskirts of Looe. If you are finishing and/or staying in Looe, Hannafore is almost a mile from the town itself, so don't get too excited if you are feeling weary, as you still have a way to go yet, especially if you're staying in East Looe! The settlement ahead of you and to the left of the Island is Seaton to the far left and Downderry to the right. You may also be able to see the Eddystone Lighthouse, which lies some 12 miles (19 km) off Looe. The present lighthouse was completed in 1882, and is usually visible from the Looe area, with or without its light. It is surprisingly not considered to be a Cornish lighthouse. If you are continuing to Plymouth, you will see the former lighthouse designed and built by John Smeaton, which is now situated on Plymouth Hoe.
The path now descends, then ascends steeply up some steps.

The attractive Portnadler Bay now comes into view. This beach is popular with people who don't mind a long walk to get some peace and with those who have a boat, so it is never crowded. It is also a place where you may see a basking shark or pilot whale - if you see lots of boats in the area, you'll know something is down there!

Climb a stile to go into the valley, then over a second one to follow the clear path alongside the fence; if you went on the inland diversion to Talland Church, you will re-emerge here. (If you fancy a swim at Portnadler, some way after the second stile you turn right just before the coast path ascends, and go over a stile; the path leads you to this quiet beach.) Go over another stile.

Go down the steps; these are a lot worse to ascend, which you will not find hard to believe if you have to give way to people going up and note their expression! Go down a few more steps to cross the wooden bridge, then aim for the kissing gate. Continue to another kissing gate.

We now recommend that you use the newly-signed coast path towards Hannafore as it is very attractive and gives better sea views. If you are in a hurry you can use the path that all the locals are using as a short cut, but it will be a while before you get back to a true coast path, so make the most of it!

LOOE ISLAND

Known both as St Michael's and St George's Island in the past, it was bought by two sisters, Evelyn and Babs Atkins in 1964, and the charming tales of their pre and post island dwelling days are recounted in Evelyn's books 'We bought an Island' and 'Tales from our Cornish Island', both of which are well worth a read. Sadly, Evelyn Atkins died in 1997, leaving Babs to live on the Island alone until her death in 2004. The Island now belongs to the Cornwall Wildlife Trust. It is possible to visit the island itself or to take a boat trip around it from the quay at East Looe during the main holiday season.

LAMMANA CHAPEL

As you walk towards the gate, you will see a fenced-off area up to your left: this is the site of Lammana Chapel, which was the cell of Benedictine Monks who were subject to the Abbey of Glastonbury. The remains can be visited and there is an unobtrusive and interesting information board to assist you. It is probably best approached by doubling back on yourself just before you reach the gate which leads you to the road and Hannafore.

Go through the gate to leave the coast path for some time - you are now in Hannafore, West Looe, and have a choice of routes. Whichever route you decide upon, you will pass toilets and a pleasant but seasonal café. The path keeps on the pavement, and the advantage of this route is that there are usually very attractive flower beds here. It is also a must if you like looking at very large houses, as this is where most of Looe's affluent folk reside, and some of these properties are establishments for bed and breakfast. When the pavement ends, follow the road, which will lead you into Looe, following the directions in the paragraph after next.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE

If you would rather keep to the coast a bit longer, then take the right hand turn by the litter bin and walk down the slope to the sea front - there is sometimes a disgusting smell of sewage here, but don't let that put you off, as it doesn't last for long (and perhaps may have been rectified by the water authority by the time you walk this stretch!). Turn left to follow the sea front, which is a good place to admire the bird life: watch out for all kinds of gulls, cormorants, oyster-catchers, guillemots, herons, and, more recently, little egrets. To rejoin the road to Looe, continue past the coastguard lookout, then ignore the flight of steps just before the blue lookout with a mast outside, but take the turn off past it, by a green 'doggie' bin, and ascend the slope with the metal hand rail. Before you turn, look over to White Patch Rock, which lets seagoing folk know that they are approaching Looe Harbour, and Banjo Pier, which is the symbol of Looe, being one of its most famous landmarks. The slope brings you out in front of the Hannafore Point Hotel. Turn right and follow the pavement onto the road, taking care to keep in, as many drivers like to take this corner at speed.

COAST PATH CONTINUES

You can now see East Looe to your right and the river below, and a good view of the town can be had from the lookout area on the castellated building on your right. Shortly after this, divert off the road as signposted to go down some steps to walk along the river and onto West Looe Quay. You pass some shops on your left, then a men's toilet, and you are on the quay. There are a couple of cafés on your left, if required. If the tide is not too low, you may wish to cross the river by ferry, which currently runs all year. The pick-up point is dependent on the state of the tide, so you'll need to keep an eye out for the ferries. If you can't get one, you'll have to go across Looe Bridge, so just follow the quay until you get to some bollards then walk up the slope to the bridge.

LOOE

The towns of East and West Looe, divided by the Looe River, are joined by a seven-arched bridge. Please do not be tempted to rush through Looe without stopping - although it can get terribly busy in Summer, it is a very special place to residents and holiday-makers, many of whom return year after year. East Looe has more facilities, but West Looe does have two pubs and some general shops, including a post office. The Discovery Centre in the Millpool car park is also worth a visit: it is a centre which encourages sustainable tourism, and is therefore very much in favour of walkers. Maps and walking literature are available there, plus a wealth of information about the South East Cornwall Area. The scenic Looe Valley Railway Line runs to Liskeard, and is undoubtedly one of the prettiest in the country. As well as being popular with enthusiasts (this single track line has a very steep gradient, and the conductor has to get out midway to change the points to enable the train to go 'backwards' - all great f
n!), it links Looe to the main Penzance - Plymouth railway line, and onwards to London, the North and Scotland.

If you are continuing your walk beyond Looe, turn right into Fore Street, where you will find the main town and facilities, including the Tourist Information Centre, then follow it until you reach a left hand turn with Ye Olde Salutation Inn on your right, and the Ship Inn on your left. The path may be rejoined by taking this left hand turn, and going straight on into East Cliff at the crossroads, and then straight on to pass a house called Jax.

If you require a bus, the bus stops are just past the Bridge. If you cross the road at the crossing on the bridge and turn right then left, the bus stop outside Looe Health Centre is for buses to Plymouth, and on the opposite side of the road for Polperro.

If you require a train, cross the road at the crossing on the bridge, turn right then left into Station Road, passing Looe Health Centre, the Texaco Garage and Looe Police Station on your left, and it is on your left.

If you have any question on any of the above please do not hesitate to contact one the event organisers found on the Contact us page click here

click to go back to previous page